The geography of barbecue is contentious -- Carolina vs. Memphis vs. Texas, and the list goes on -- so chef Rob Sonderman aimed to avoid conflict when opening the new DCity Smokehouse, the carryout extension of Revive Catering, near NoMa.

"It's like the United Nations of barbecue," Sonderman said at a media opening of the tiny five-seat storefront last night. The sauce is Kansas City style, while the meats have a distinctively Texas influence, thanks to Sonderman's time as the pit master of Hill Country. The menu also has hints of other Southwestern flavors: a torta makes an appearance, as do chipotle and jalapeno aiolis.

Chef Rob Sonderman and his sandwiches (Maura Judkis)

Sonderman smokes pork, chicken, turkey and brisket every day for DCity's seven sandwiches and variety of platters. The wings, (five for $5, 10 for $9, and 24 for $19) are smoked for two hours with hickory and cherry wood, and the pork ribs spend four hours in the smoker. Brisket and pork shoulder are smoked overnight, and before it heads to the wood and charcoal-fired smoker, the turkey is brined with rosemary and buttermilk.

Add a $3 side, such as crispy Brussels sprouts, hush puppies or red chili coleslaw, to any of the shop's sandwiches, which include "The Meaty Palmer" (smoked turkey and pork belly with smashed avocado and jalapeno aioli) and the "Brisket Champ" (sliced or chopped brisket with crispy fried onions and house-made pickles), all between $8.50-$12. Sampler platters ($14-$18), can be preordered for tailgaters.

DCity Smokehouse, 8 Florida Ave NW. Tuesday-Saturday, noon-8 p.m.