So yes, at first glance, this seems like half of a tabloid "Who Wore it Best?" spread, between a dessert and an ashtray.

The Coppa di Torino dessert at Alba Osteria (Maura Judkis/for The Post)

But it's not what it looks like. Meringue protrudes like cigarettes from Alba Osteria's wacky looking take on an ice cream sundae, a bowl of silky smooth hazelnut gelato and nocello-soaked cookie, which gets its flavor from a walnut-hazelnut liqueur. It's topped with candied chestnuts and cherries and vaguely resembles Sputnik. The fun is in dismantling it piece by piece, and scooping up the lush whipped cream with each stick. It might be 17 degrees outside, but it's never too cold for gelato.