Yes, we know, "This Thing You Should Try" is supposed to be a thing, singular. But we've eaten our way through six of the eight sandwiches on the menu at Beer & Welding, a sandwich counter tucked away in the back of a Dupont mini-market, and it was hard to decide which one we liked the best -- there are definitely some 40 Eats contenders in here. What they all have in common: Succulent slow-roasted pulled meats by Rob Miller, who also owns the Ball or Nothing food truck.

The sandwich shop, which used to be a bao bun counter, opened this spring. Try to go on the earlier side, because they occasionally run out of ingredients. You'll find these beauties -- each one is $8 -- at the back of the Oasis Market off of Dupont Circle, at 2024 P St. NW. A tour of the meaty menu follows (we didn't try their chicken and tuna salads, alas).

The Ian: We liked this spicy pulled barbeque chicken sandwich's heat and tang, as well as the added crunch from potato chips, though it was one of the soggier sandwiches. It's spicier than it looks.

The Ball or Nothing: In fact, the Ian is spicier than this meatball sub, which boasts a ghost chili tomato sauce. The meatballs, made from pork, beef and veal, are enormous, and they're nicely accented with basil and an 'ndjua-mascarpone spread.

The Bob: Slow-cooked pork with roasted red pepper, garlic spinach and provolone. A good substitute for those who miss Taylor Gourmet's Market Street sub, which is no longer on their menu, may it rest in peace.

The El Porko: "Oh my God," said Fritz as he sunk his teeth into this one. It's slow-cooked pork shoulder with Swiss cheese, pickled ramps and greens. So messy. So worth the mini-shame spiral you feel after eating something called an "El Porko."

The Famous Oasis: A new twist on the classic roast beef and bleu cheese sandwich, this one incorporates slow-cooked beef with thinly-sliced apple, provolone and a garlic aioli that really pulls the whole thing together. Oh, and did we mention that all of the bread for these sandwiches comes from the Heidelberg Bakery?

The Hindu Nightmare: The most tender brisket we've had all year -- on one of the cheekiest-named sandwiches. B&W make their own chimichurri sauce for this one, and they slather it in melted onions.

Beer & Welding, inside Oasis Market off Dupont Circle. 2024 P St. NW. 202-269-4300.