Two questions food fans want answers to now that the four-star CityZen is no more: What’s the next move for chef Eric Ziebold, and will he put his beloved Parker House rolls on his next menu?
The chef wants Kinship to have the air of a dinner party. Menu selections will fall under four headings — ingredients, craft, history and decadence — pegged, respectively, to what’s in season, technique, classic dishes and treats such as foie gras and truffles.
“I’m not radically changing my cooking style,” says the chef. Diners will be free to mix and match from the different categories and create their own tasting menus, or order a la carte. The name Kinship is meant to evoke family and the melting pot of flavors that modern American cuisine has become.
Accessed by an elevator, the below-ground space will showcase a salon, or lounge, with a fireplace; a 36-seat, dinner-only dining room; and a $150 (or so) tasting menu. To distinguish the experience from the competition, Ziebold plans to offer enhanced coffee service and tableside cooking, among other amenities.
Washington designer Darryl Carter, owner of an eponymous boutique on Ninth Street NW, has been recruited to create both interiors.
As for whether or not he’ll be serving those already-missed rolls again, Ziebold says he’s torn between giving future customers what they want and introducing them to something novel. In other words, he says, "The verdict is out."