Novelty, you little minx.

Every time we think we'll be good, just this once -- brown-bag our lunch, feel good about ourselves with our little container of fat-free yogurt -- you seduce us with something too intriguing to pass up. (Muffin ice cream sandwich, anyone?) This week's something: The burrito-size sushi rolls from Buredo.

Apparently, we were not the only ones so tempted. The millennial-heavy line at the new Franklin Square shop stretched out the door on Tuesday afternoon. With about equal parts self-loathing and silver lining (time to catch up on that Kindle reading!), we braved the heat and the crowd for about 25 minutes to acquire our three rolls.

Let's just say next time we'll probably try to avoid peak lunch hour, but there will be a next time. Despite the gimmicky-sounding concept, we found a lot to like about our three rolls.

All boasted a satisfying mix of textures and flavors, with the lemon aioli accompanying the yellowfin tuna sashimi on the Hanzo roll ($11.75) earning particular plaudits. Alongside roasted red peppers, jicama and arugula, the tofu in the vegetarian Elle ($9.25) had a nice chew (no mushy-soy syndrome here). The pork shoulder in the Crazy 88 ($10.25), combined with carrots, kimchi slaw and corn, was tender thanks to its time in the slow-cooker.


The rest of the menu features rolls centered on beets, salmon sashimi, shrimp tempura and a mix of tuna and salmon sashimi. There's also a salad with your choice of sashimi.

But we have to believe the rolls are the real star at Buredo. When we think of the burritos at other popular lunch spots, we're used to soggy flour tortillas bursting with mushy rice. At Buredo, the nori wrap is pliable but not limp. And rather than dominating the filling, the authentically sticky rice forms a thin layer on the inside of the nori.

So congrats, Buredo. You've lived up to the hype. The next time something a little trendy catches our eye, we realize we may not be as lucky.

Buredo, 825 14th St. NW. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday.

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