Washington’s new piehouse is our favorite kind of house

Ah, Greece. Land of ancient ruins, olive oil, ouzo and sun-drenched islands.

And pies. Wonderful, wonderful pies.

At least this is what you will come away from downtown Washington's new Alfa Piehouse thinking. The shop is a collaboration between Greek pastry company Alfa and Greek chef and cookbook author Argiro Barbarigou.

"Everybody grows up eating pies in Greece," Barbarigou said. Pie shops are traditional in Greece, she said, but in America, Greek pies are often limited to spinach-and-cheese varieties in restaurants. With Alfa Piehouse, she wanted to introduce more flavors and the complete experience of a pie-centered restaurant.

The cafe carries a mind-boggling array of pies ($6.50-$7.25) -- big, small, round, long, triangular. Some are made by Alfa; others use Alfa phyllo dough but are created in-house according to Barbarigou's recipes. Fillings include feta, leeks, greens, spinach and olive paste, which are put together in various combinations and shapes. A little less expected: Fluffy mashed potatoes. Mixed with spring onions, they form the base of the Paros pie, a long double roll that rose to the top of the pack in our informal tasting.

We also enjoyed mini versions ($1.75 each or six for $7.75) of the feta-stuffed roll and spinach-and-feta spiral. Save our slightly pale leek roll, the phyllo on all the pastries was flawlessly cooked to a crispy, burnished gold. (Yes, you will have to contend with a shower of crumbs with each and every bite.)

Sweet pies come in flavors such as apple, pumpkin and orange. We were particularly enamored of the kihi cream pie, a spiral with cream custard and kissed with just the right amount of cinnamon sugar.

Pies aren't the only item on the menu, though. There are sandwiches featuring ham, cheese and vegetables, as well as salads and caffeinated beverages. And what would a Greek cafe be without yogurt? Alfa Piehouse sells several bowls with toppings including fruit, nuts, honey and a savory mix of cucumber, dill and mint.

Alfa Piehouse, 1750 H St. NW (Metro: Farragut West). 202-846-7122. www.alfapiehouse.com. Open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday.

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