Kapnos Kouzina makes its debut in Bethesda

Mike Isabella's Kapnos Kouzina makes its debut this week in Bethesda. (Becky Krystal/The Washington Post)

Name: Kapnos Kouzina
Vitals: 4900 Hampden Lane, Bethesda. 301-986-8500. kapnoskouzina.com.
Neighborhood: Downtown Bethesda
Description: Your imaginary yia-yia turned pro
Ambiance: Greek garden gathering place for family, friends and dates
Previously: Vapiano
Owners: Mike Isabella, with partner George Pagonis
Chefs: George Pagonis (executive chef), Greg Basalla (chef de cuisine)
Open: Lunch, dinner (beginning March 11) and brunch (beginning March 12)

The food

This is the third iteration of Isabella and Pagonis's Kapnos concept, after the original on 14th Street and Kapnos Taverna in Ballston (there's one in Reagan National Airport, too). The District location focuses on northern Greek fare, Taverna on coastal cuisine and Kouzina will spotlight other regional Greek food you might find at the family table: fried chicken (preserved lemon brine, burnt honey harissa), moussaka (roasted eggplant, allspice-cinnamon braised mushrooms, bechamel) and charred octopus (with beluga lentils). The food is "more geared to dishes I had as a child," Pagonis said. With new menu items such as the Turkish pide (flatbreads), "We're trying to make up for the lack of the spit," which is heavily used at the other two restaurants, he said. Diners will have their pick of a variety of small plates, but there will be a focus on shareable platters, too, thanks to the larger family parties Pagonis said they're expecting.

The drinks

More from Isabella beverage director Taha Ismail. Expect local, national and Greek canned and bottled beers, wine with an emphasis on Greece and cocktails from the other Kapnos spots. There will be house-made sodas as well.

The space

A little bit like an arboretum, in a good way: Big windows, lots of natural light and plenty of plants, supplemented by a green color theme. The restaurant has room for 160 diners in more than 5,000 square feet, plus patio seating. The open kitchen is a focal point, as is the 24-seat horseshoe shaped bar. There's also a 12-seat communal table and 12-seat chef counter.

Roasted beets with sweet potato, pistachios and a sour cherry vinaigrette ($10), on the cold mezze portion of the menu.

The fried chicken, served with a burnt honey harissa, is available in half ($23) or whole ($39) portions.

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