Fried. Pizza. Each word is appealing itself on its own. Put 'em together, and you get the pizza frito classico at Little Coco's, the new Petworth restaurant and bar from the team behind the late Jackie's.

The dish is chef Adam Harvey's riff on what you'd find at the ubiquitous fry stands in Naples, the southern Italian city known as the original home of pizza.

To make the dish, Harvey rolls the pizza dough into a 20-inch round (the normal pies reach about 12 inches in diameter) then places a filling of pizza sauce and mozzarella cheese at one end. The whole thing is shaped into a fatter-in-the-middle crescent that looks a bit like a croissant. The pizza goes into a fryer with a mix of olive and vegetable oils, where it's cooked for about six minutes until the outside is golden brown and the inside is warm and gooey.

The result is something like a cross between a doughnut, a pizza and a mozzarella stick. (All good things, right?) You'll probably also notice a pronounced beer flavor, thanks to the Salad Days saison from Pale Fire Brewing Co. in Harrisonburg, Va., in the dough. The fryer brings out the brew's characteristics much more than the dry heat used on the regular pizzas, the chef said.

Harvey serves the fried pizza with a lightly dressed arugula salad to help cut through the richness, plus a little cup of extra tomato sauce for dipping.

"It's been super popular" so far, he said, especially as a first course or shareable plate. "It's a hefty dish to eat on your own."

Little Coco's, 3907 14th St. NW. 202-853-9889.

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