A selection of bagel doughnuts from B. Doughnut's stall at Union Market. (Holley Simmons/The Washington Post)

Reading the menu at B. Doughnut’s new Union Market stall, you may think two pages of a cookbook accidentally got stuck together. Bagel doughnuts? That can’t be right.

In reality, the fusion is very deliberate. Brian Chanthapanya and his wife, Pin, spend up to 12 hours meticulously preparing the dough for these and other more traditional sweet flavors. Based on a recipe for a malasada — a Portuguese-style doughnut made with yeast-leavened dough that's popular throughout Hawaii — they also come in more traditional flavors, including vanilla bean and lemon curd.

At the new pop up from this Leesburg-based bakery, running through Aug. 13, the savory version is likely to cause the most double takes. The yeast-leavened dough (compared with a denser, crumby cake doughnut recipe) is fluffy, light and neutral enough to act as a blank canvas for experimental riffs.

Which is why the whipped cream cheese filling, available in such flavors as bacon, chive and lox, works so well. Hand dipped in "everything" seasoning blend, it’s like sinking your teeth into an airy, pillowy bagel.

The trick, we found, is to consume them within an hour of ordering. Otherwise, the salt crystals moisten the dough, resulting in soggy bagel doughnuts.

For the purists out there, try the cinnamon sugar option. As for the haters, go grab a bagel at Buffalo & Bergen.

Available at Union Market through Aug. 13 for $3 each. Tuesday to Friday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. or until sold out, Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. or until sold out.

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