Overview

I don’t eat a lot of packaged candy these days. If I want a sweet, I’m probably going to take aim at a baked good or ice cream. Some good dark chocolate or little artisan chocolate confection is about as close as I get, unless you put a bag of those mellowcreme pumpkins in front of me, and then I am totally, inexplicably helpless. But let’s not go there.

And yet, there is just something about candy that has such a nostalgic hold on me — and on many of us. Maybe it has to do with those brain pleasure centers that light up and made us reach for Runts instead of rutabagas. Or maybe it’s the good memories attached to candy. I still remember eating the Andes mints in the apartment office where as a toddler I’d accompany my mom to pay the rent. I have a less-distinct memory — my great aunt’s candy dish, perhaps? — of those strawberry suckers that are hard on the outside and gooey on the inside.

But sesame honey candies, the individually wrapped pinky-sized bricks, will forever, fondly be associated with my grandfather. It’s probably been decades since he pulled one out of his pocket for me and my brothers, and still, the association remains. I flashed back immediately to that when I bit into one of these Sesame Candies from Israeli Soul: Easy, Essential, Delicious, the new cookbook by chef Michael Solomonov of Philadelphia’s Zahav and his business partner, Steven Cook. (The duo will be in Washington for an event next month.) The book calls it brittle, but we thought the texture was more chewy than crackly.

The candy captures that sweet, nutty flavor of the store-bought stuff, without the annoying cellophane wrappers. The flavor is amped up by the less-traditional addition of tahini. The tahini also keeps the candy from getting as rock hard as what you might buy, which is a good thing in my book (as a kid I used to have to suck on them for a while just to soften to a chewable consistency).

In testing, I got a more toasty, caramel flavor when I used a dark honey and took the mixture to a slightly darker color. If you go that route, just be careful, because the caramel can burn quickly. If you want a thicker slab than the thin pieces this recipe creates, you can put the mixture in a pan with less surface area, such as a loaf pan. You’ll probably end up with fewer pieces.

As it stands, the recipe makes 64 small squares. (I happen to like the resemblance to Scrabble tiles.) So there’s plenty for you to gobble down and still have enough to share. I think it’s time I repay the favor and share some with my grandpa.

Buying Tip: You’ll need about two 2-ounce spice jars of sesame seeds; you can often buy the seeds in bulk.

Make Ahead: The candies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

Scale and get a printer-friendly version of the recipe here.


Ingredients


Canola oil, for the pan

1cupsesame seeds (not toasted; see OVERVIEW)

14cuphoney

14cupsugar

Pinch kosher salt

1tablespoontahini, stirred well


Steps

Step 1


Coat an 8-inch-square baking dish or pan lightly with the oil.

Combine the sesame seeds, honey, sugar and salt in a small, deep saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for 2 minutes, stirring vigorously.

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Step 2


Stir in the tahini; once the mixture returns to a boil, cook for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, or until thickened. Stir vigorously and, working quickly, scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish, using the back of a spoon to spread it into an even layer. (A little more oil or cooking oil spray on the back of the spoon can help if it’s sticking to the mixture.)

Step 3


Let cool slightly, then use a rounded table knife or thin plastic spatula to loosen the slab around the edges. Slide it onto a cutting board, then cut into 1-inch pieces.

Serve right away (they will be a bit chewy), or let them sit at room temperature until hardened, about 1 hour.


Adapted from Israeli Soul: Easy, Essential, Delicious, by Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018).

Tested by Becky Krystal; email questions to voraciously@washpost.com.

Scale and get a printer-friendly version of the recipe here. The nutritional analysis was run per piece.

Did you make this recipe? Take a photo and tag us on Instagram with #eatvoraciously.

Nutrition

Calories: 25; Total Fat: 2 g; Saturated Fat: 0 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 10 mg; Carbohydrates: 2 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 2 g; Protein: 0 g.