Hermana never touched a knife or a cutting board. This was, to me, a mic drop.
Bologna has three nicknames. “La Rossa,” the Red One, for its sprawling terra cotta, historically left-leaning protests and a past reputation as the bastion of Italy’s Communist Party post World War II. “La Dotta,” the Learned One, for the University of Bologna, established in 1088 and considered the oldest university in the Western world. And “La Grassa,” the Fat One, the breadbasket of Italy; home to mortadella, tigelle, modern gelato, lasagna Bolognese, tortellini in brodo and velvety tangles of tagliatelle al ragu, among other widely known dishes.
The 25 miles of medieval porticoes, columned and covered sidewalks looping serpentine through the city, are a lasting relic of Bologna’s tendency to match timelessness with millennia of postwar shrewdness and metamorphosis. Hermana’s box grater epitomizes both the Italian virtue of resourcefulness and the attuned care for a day’s in-between moments. It speaks of tools that endure and the persistence to make them last. It hints at a resilience shared openly in trickier moments — a pandemic causes households to quarantine, so locals open their windows and sing to the neighbors’ balconies.
What originated in my head as a way to avoid extra dishes became a useful reminder: Good cooking doesn’t require reinventing the wheel, though resourceful cooking can show the wheel’s deeper, more intricate chambers. The magic lies not only in repurposing a tool most often reserved for shredding cheese, but also in manipulating ingredients into coarse ribbons that melt, slump and cling to pasta the way a good sauce should.
Grating an ingredient also affects its flavor and aroma, a lesson I later absorbed in cooking school and on the line in restaurants, always recalling Hermana. Slicing an onion means breaking up its cell structures, releasing enzymes that precede the reaction we experience as smell and flavor. The finer you cut an onion — or a butternut squash or a ripe tomato — the more taste and flavor compounds are released. Smell and flavor intensify.
My recipes — fresh tomato sugo with chewy gemelli and linguine with butternut squash aglio e olio — gesture to the idea that high levels of skill and flavor can be built from few tools and low effort. The sauces mingle the iconic Bolognese hues of orange, beige and red, evoking Hermana and reminding me that the most valuable kitchen tools aren’t fancy gadgets but tenacity and adaptability.
Linguine With Butternut Squash, Garlic and Olive Oil (Linguine e Butternut Aglio e Olio)
Use either linguine or bucatini for this dish because the sauce is inherently flexible — tender, collapsing strands of garlicky, grated butternut squash cling to short and long noodles alike.
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more for the pasta water
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup grated white onion (from 1/2 onion)
- 2 cups grated butternut squash
- 2 cloves garlic, grated
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
- 1/4 cup torn fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for serving
- 1 pound linguine or bucatini
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Combine the oil, onion, squash, garlic, crushed red pepper and salt in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook the squash mixture until softened and fragrant, 12 to 15 minutes. Stir in the parsley and remove from the heat.
Cook the pasta until al dente, about 2 minutes less than the package instructions indicate. Reserve 1 cup of the starchy pasta cooking water and drain the pasta.
Add the pasta and 1/4 cup of the pasta water to the squash mixture and toss until the strands are glossy and slick with sauce. (Add more of the reserved pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if needed.) Heat the pasta over medium heat, tossing frequently, until just warmed through, 1 to 3 minutes.
Divide the pasta among 4 bowls, garnish with more fresh parsley and serve.
Recipe from food writer Julia Clancy.
Tested by Ann Maloney; email questions to email@example.com.
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Calories: 389; Total Fat: 28 g; Saturated Fat: 5 g; Cholesterol: 24 mg; Sodium: 208 mg; Carbohydrates: 29 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugars: 2 g; Protein: 5 g.