You bet I can identify it. Among other things I’m a master plumber, and I’ve owned and moved several of these monster sinks. Believe it or not you’re the proud owner of a collector’s item. You’ve got a marvelous precast concrete laundry tub that’s nearly indestructible.
My research shows the first generation of these wonderful sinks was displayed for the world to see at the 1867 Paris Exposition. A man by the name of Joseph Monier was a gardener who started making steel-reinforced concrete tubs and pots because he was dissatisfied with clay and wood pots that would fall apart.
Concrete is strong when you try to compress it, but if you try to stretch or bend it, it’s weak. Steel is exceptionally strong if you try to stretch it. When you combine the concrete and steel in the right configuration, you can make beams, columns, suspended slabs, bridges, boats and even laundry tubs!
I was lucky enough to have concrete laundry tubs in the first two houses I owned. The sinks come in different models, with one-, two- or three-basin sinks. The sinks weigh hundreds of pounds.
I believe the reason they’re so strong is because the manufacturers decided to make the concrete mix quite rich. They added enough Portland cement so the concrete probably tested out at 6,000 pounds per square inch or higher compressive strength. Years ago when the sinks were made, this extra cement probably only cost the manufacturers a nickel since there’s not that much cement volume in each sink. What a wise decision it was!
The top lip of your sink is made from steel so the edge won’t chip. The workmanship that went into creating these sinks is of the highest quality. I’ve seen hundreds of them in my career and all of them are impressive.
I would start the restoration process by removing any rust from the steel support stand. Once the stand is sanded and ready for primer and paint, use high-quality paint made to coat steel. The stand probably was painted black or dark gray when the sink was new.
After you have the steel stand looking good, then start to remove any paint from the inside of the sink basin walls. You can do this with common paste paint strippers. Follow the directions on the label and be sure the space is well ventilated if you’re using a stripper that contains methylene chloride.
I would then try to scrub the sides of the sink with a common abrasive cleaner that you can get in any grocery store in the cleaning products aisle. Just test it on a small area at first using a scrub brush with stiff nylon bristles. Do not use a wire brush of any type, especially one on a spinning power tool. That will damage the concrete surface in no time.
You’ll have fantastic results removing oil stains and any organic stains using a powerful oxygen bleach solution. Just spritz the sides of the sink with the solution keeping the concrete wet for an hour or more. Don’t let the solution dry. Every 15 minutes scrub with the brush and see if you’re making progress. If so, keep at it until you get the sink clean.
Realize if you use muriatic acid to try to clean the sink, you’ll damage the steel lip and you’ll erode some of the cement paste that makes the inside of the sink basins so smooth. I’d not recommend using acid at all.
If you want to drill new holes in the sink to accommodate a modern faucet, you can do this with a diamond hole-cutting saw. Realize you’ll have to make certain the blade can cut through tiny steel wire that you’re sure to encounter in the concrete matrix.
Before you do this radical modification to the sink, please consider taking the time to visit plumbing supply houses where plumbers buy most of their products. These unique businesses can be found in just about every large or medium-size city. They rarely advertise, but, believe me, they exist.
There’s a great chance these supply houses will have a faucet that will work using the existing holes in the sink.
If that doesn’t work, I’d be inclined to work with a local welder who works in stainless steel. See if he can fabricate a mount that has holes for modern faucets. This mount would have small bolts that would allow you to use the existing holes to pull the mount tight to the sink and leave enough space for the water supply lines to feed the faucet.
Tim Carter is a columnist for Tribune Media Services. Contact him through his Web site: www.askthebuilder.com.
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