Some authors or instructors call for cooking the yolks over hot water, but cool and author Madeleine Kamman writes, "Over direct heat, you are in charge, not the double boiler."
Servings: 1.66 cups
- 3 eggs, yolks-only
- 2 tablespoons lemon juice
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco brand
- 4 grind black pepper
- 8 ounces unsalted butter, melted, warm but not hot
- 1 tablespoon water
Combine the egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, hot pepper sauce and pepper in a small stainless-steel-lined (nonreactive) saucepan and whisk to combine. Place the saucepan over direct low heat and whisk vigorously for about 2 minutes, until the yolk mixture lightens to a pale, thickish foam that resembles a thin mousse. Shake the pan with one hand while whisking with the other to keep the yolks from adhering to the bottom of the pan. Keep up continuous whisking. When the mixture has turned completely to foam, remove the pan from the heat. Slowly whisk in a third of the melted butter until completely incorporated. Whisk in 1/2 tablespoon of water. Whisk in another third of the butter. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of water. Whisk in the remaining butter until well combined. Serve immediately.
This version is adapted from Madeleine Kamman's recipe in "The New Making of a Cook" (William Morrow and Co., 1997).
Tested by Peggy Roth and Bonne S. Benwick.
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