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Why you should visit the Edgar Allan Poe Museum in Richmond - The Washington Post

From “<a href="https://read.amazon.com/kp/embed?asin=B0084B68X0&preview=newtab&linkCode=kpe&ref_=cm_sw_r_kb_dp_HDN3P54F0DXPB3B1PE1K&tag=thewaspos09-20" target=_blank>The Raven</a>,” Edgar Allan Poe’s acclaimed poem, we know that birds can speak. If the Enchanted Garden at the <a href="https://poemuseum.org/" target=_blank>Poe Museum</a> in Richmond, which celebrates its centennial this year, had a voice, it might have a choice word to say as well.

“Evermore,” the bricks from the Southern Literary Messenger building, the writer’s former office, would utter. “Evermore,” the ivy clipped from his mother’s grave would whisper. “Evermore,” the copy of the bust of Poe would intone, before asking after the original plaster statue of his head. (Rest easy, Mr. Poe. After police recovered the stolen object from the bar at the Raven Inn in 1987, it has been living safely and soberly inside the museum’s reading room.)

To be sure, 100 years is not forever, but for a museum dedicated to a 19th-century American author who wades in the dark recesses of the human psyche, it comes close. Since opening in April 1922, the institution in Richmond’s Shockoe Bottom neighborhood has survived not only wars and financial crashes but also seismic changes in literary tastes and the act of reading itself.

Richmond is the perfect day-trip destination from D.C., via train

“What’s kept the Poe Museum going for a century has been Poe. He’s never been out of fashion. He’s never been out of print,” said Chris Semtner, the museum’s curator who seamlessly inserts Poe quotes into conversation. “Poe’s works have continued to evolve with the times, so this museum has continued to evolve, because Poe is there for us.”

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Before Poe was there for the museum, he was here in Richmond. His life intersected with the city at several plot points. After his father abandoned the family and his mother died, John Allan, a wealthy tobacco merchant, and his wife, Frances, raised the orphaned toddler. Between 1835 and 1837, the aspiring writer worked as an editor and contributor at the Southern Literary Messenger, an influential periodical. He married his 13-year-old cousin Virginia in Richmond. Following her death from tuberculosis in 1847, he planned to betroth his first love, Sarah Elmira Royster Shelton, in the same city. However, in a case of life imitating macabre fiction, he mysteriously died 10 days before their wedding. Though he took his last breath in Baltimore nearly 175 years ago, his legacy still beats in the heart of Richmond.

“Richmond was mostly devoted to politics and the state Capitol. There wasn’t really a literary scene. Poe tried to change that and cultivate literature here,” Semtner said. “It’s still going today, and we’re still part of that tradition.”

The museum’s founders, a coterie of admirers, initially established an ode to Poe in the interior courtyard of the Old Stone House, the city’s oldest residential structure (circa 1740). The shrine and memorial garden, which incorporate fragments from his life and works, were inspired by his poem “To One in Paradise.” “A green isle in the sea, love; a fountain and a shrine; all wreathed with fairy fruits and flowers,” Semtner recited on a recent Saturday afternoon as we stood in the manicured sanctum, still drowsy from the long winter. “This is a living, breathing Poe poem.”

HANDOUT IMAGE on 12/10/19

In honor of the centennial, the museum will host an UnHappy Hour on April 28, featuring the local surf-rock horror band the Embalmers; a 1920s costume party (accessorize with a cloche hat and an afflicted soul); bites from <a href="http://www.goatocado.com/home" target=_blank>Goatocado</a>, <a href="https://www.oakandapplerichmond.com/" target=_blank>Oak &amp; Apple</a> and <a href="http://www.whiskrva.com/" target=_blank>Whisk</a>; and a cash bar. The staff will also unveil a trove of Poe artifacts that Susan Jaffe Tane, a preeminent New York collector, donated for the occasion. Semtner said the nearly 70-piece gift will help the museum, which claims the world’s largest collection of Poe memorabilia (roughly 4,000 items), plug small gaps in the author’s professional and personal history, including his Richmond periods.

“That small band of writers and artists who started this back in 1922, they would be shocked to see how much the museum has grown over the years,” Semtner said. “They couldn’t have imagined that we were going to have Elmira’s engagement ring or that we were going to occupy four buildings in the garden or that we were going to have a global presence online, because they wouldn’t know what ‘online’ was.”

When I arrived, the museum was jammed with people, many of whom were lingering around the ticket counter petting Pluto (red collar), the resident black cat who was performing greeter duties that morning. “I feel like Edgar is Edgar Allan Poe reincarnated,” Maeve Jones, the executive director, said of the second, more enigmatic feline (gray collar). After I gave Pluto a requisite scratch behind the ear, I followed Semtner and Jones through the Enchanted Garden and into the first of three themed buildings: childhood, in the Old Stone House; career, in the Elizabeth Arnold Poe Memorial Building; and death, in the North Building. In a cluttered room near the display of Poe’s boyhood effects, Semtner slipped on a pair of gloves and, with light fingers, picked up one of the donated items. “There is a slumped weariness in his expression,” Semtner said of the last photograph taken of Poe, a sixth-plate tintype based on a daguerreotype. “Maybe he knew that death was coming.”

Semtner next showed me an elegant pocket watch that Poe had owned when he wrote the “<a href="https://read.amazon.com/kp/embed?asin=B00CF3XIKO&preview=newtab&linkCode=kpe&ref_=cm_sw_r_kb_dp_E2191652ZKQAGS2KC2CW&tag=thewaspos09-20" target=_blank>The Tell-Tale Heart</a>.” Though clocks appear in the chilling story, the timepiece did not occupy Poe’s inspiration board for long. The author, a profligate spender and dapper dresser, relinquished the valuable to his tailor as payment. “This is Poe not managing money well,” Semtner said. “He bought his wife a harp and a piano and himself clothes. Those were his priorities: looking good.”

One artifact — a shard of his coffin — was seemingly plucked from Poe’s grisly imagination. In 1875, his body was relocated to another plot at the <a href="https://www.westminsterhall.org/" target=_blank>Westminster Burying Ground</a> in Baltimore. The coffin shattered in the move, and his body tumbled out. The remnant will join a lock of hair, his engraved walking stick and a pair of his socks already on display in the death room.

“Coming here is the closest you get to seeing Poe in the flesh, the closest you get to seeing him face-to-face. This is the stuff that he owned, the things he wore, even a part of him,” Semtner said. “It’s almost like a time machine. You get to bring Poe back to today or go back to his time.”

I parted ways with Semtner and Jones in the gift shop, surrounded by a fun house of Poes peering out from T-shirts, magnets, stickers, mugs and a specialty blend of coffee. I returned to the “career” building and climbed the staircase from his boyhood home to a cozy library. Pluto was on break, resting on a divan. The room was silent — no beating hearts, ticking clocks or gnostic ravens — except for the creak of a chair and the soft flutter of a turning page.

<a href="https://poemuseum.org/" target=_blank>poemuseum.org</a>

The museum features four buildings, plus a garden, stuffed with artifacts from Poe’s life. It hosts an UnHappy Hour in the Enchanted Garden every fourth Thursday from April though October. The first UnHappy Hour of the season, on April 28, celebrates the centennial with live music by the Embalmers, food from local purveyors and a cash bar. The museum is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. The event costs $10 and is free for children 6 and younger. General museum admission is $9 per adult and $7 seniors 60 and over, children 7 to 17 and veterans.

Potential travelers should take local and national public health directives regarding the pandemic into consideration before planning any trips. Travel health notice information can be found on the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s interactive map showing travel recommendations by <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/travelers/map-and-travel-notices.html">destination</a> and the CDC’s <a href="https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/noticescovid19">travel health notice webpage</a>.

Andrea Sachs has written for Travel since 2000. She has reported from nearby places such as Ellicott City, Md., and the Jersey Shore, and from far-flung locations, including Burma, Namibia and Russia.

Andrea Sachs

Why you should visit the Edgar Allan Poe Museum in Richmond

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Edgar Allan Poe Museum marks 100 years celebrating master of the macabre 

Louisiana Civil Rights Trail gets additional markers - The Washington Post

On Feb. 1, the start of <a href="https://www.blackhistorymonth.gov/" target=_blank>Black History Month</a>, Leona Tate stood near the doorway she first entered more than 60 years ago as one of three Black students to integrate the McDonogh 19 Elementary School in New Orleans. Back then, the 6-year-old in the dainty dress and hair ribbon was flanked by federal marshals. This morning, she was surrounded by admirers and other activists, plus a life-size figure draped in billowy fabric. At the go signal, Tate grabbed a handful of cloth and pulled, revealing a Louisiana Civil Rights Trail marker, another stop on the state’s long road to racial equality.

“Today is special, because [the desegregation of McDonogh 19] is getting the recognition it should have gotten years ago,” Tate said after the ceremony. “We were introduced to racism here, even though we didn’t understand what it was at 6 years old. I want racism to end here.”

Last February, the state debuted the <a href="https://www.louisianacivilrightstrail.com/" target=_blank>Louisiana Civil Rights Trail,</a> a mix of online content, such as archival photos and video, and physical sites integral to the movement that engulfed the South in the 1950s and ’60s. Three months later, the first marker — a 6-foot-tall-ish steel silhouette of a protester holding an interpretive plaque — was installed at Dooky Chase’s Restaurant in New Orleans. Designations at two spots in Baton Rouge (A.Z. Young Park and the Old State Capitol) and one in Shreveport (Little Union Baptist Church) followed. The day after the McDonogh 19 unveiling, the <a href="https://geauxguardmuseums.com/" target=_blank>Louisiana Maneuvers and Military Museum</a> in Pineville received its signage. The <a href="https://www.hicksfoundation.org/" target=_blank>Robert “Bob” Hicks House</a> in Bogalusa is next in line. One of the country’s best-known desegregated schools, the William Frantz Elementary School, where Ruby Bridges enrolled as the first Black student, is slated to receive a marker this year.

A new guide leads travelers through U.S. civil rights history

Lt. Gov. Billy Nungesser (R) spearheaded the project with the <a href="https://www.louisianatravel.com/" target=_blank>Louisiana Tourism Office </a>in 2019. Over two years, the trail’s organizers traveled about 3,000 miles around the state, collecting stories and pinpointing landmarks. The team initially flagged 14 sites for markers. At other locations, visitors will be able to download audio and hear about the seminal events that took place there, such as lunch-counter sit-ins and public bus boycotts. In addition, Louisiana is one of 15 states and D.C. on the <a href="https://civilrightstrail.com/" target=_blank>U.S. Civil Rights Trail</a>. This month, the national route added nine Bayou State destinations to its compendium of more than 130 attractions. Several — the University of Louisiana at Lafayette and Canal Street in New Orleans, for instance — do not yet have stars on the state’s trail map.

“Louisiana is definitely a state with great sites that the local leadership created on its own, without Martin Luther King,” said Lee Sentell, director of the <a href="https://alabama.travel/" target=_blank>Alabama Tourism Department </a>and author of the new publication “<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1575719932/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=thewaspos09-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1575719932&linkId=205625d66131fc9aa561aa843a734853" target=_blank>The Official United States Civil Rights Trail</a>,” which includes a Louisiana chapter.

I visited the four markers in New Orleans and Baton Rouge, as well as several other spots I gleaned from the U.S. trail’s website (<a href="https://akiliacademy.org/" target=_blank>Frantz </a>school), the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/index.htm" target=_blank>National Park Service</a> (165-year timeline at <a href="https://www.nps.gov/jela/planyourvisit/french-quarter-site.htm" target=_blank>Jean Lafitte’s French Quarter Visitors Center</a>) and the owner of my Airbnb in New Orleans, who tipped me off to a Woolworth’s luncheonette counter inside <a href="https://www.peachesrecordsandtapes.com/" target=_blank>Peaches</a>, a record store on Magazine Street. The former department store’s windows face a police precinct. Looking through the glass, I could easily imagine what happened when civil rights activists took a seat at the counter.

The site: McDonogh 19, New Orleans.

What happened here: On Nov. 14, 1960, six years after the Supreme Court ruled “separate but equal” unconstitutional in Brown v. Board of Education, the McDonogh Three became the first Black students to attend the previously all-White school in the Lower Ninth Ward. Federal marshals shielded Tate, Gail Etienne and Tessie Prevost from an angry crowd protesting integration. White parents withdrew their children, leaving the girls as the sole students for the entire year. For their safety, they ate lunch under a stairwell, spent recess indoors and were taught in a classroom with papered-over windows.

While you’re there: Visit the <a href="https://www.tepcenter.org/" target=_blank>Tate, Etienne and Prevost (TEP) Center</a>, a new mixed-use space that includes an interpretive exhibit dedicated to civil rights efforts and actors in New Orleans. Tate expects to open the educational venue next month in the lower levels of the former school, which, in an ironic wink, her nonprofit owns. “I want visitors to take those same steps, the way we came in and how we moved around in here, and hopefully they’ll feel what we felt,” she said. “I want this place to offer some sort of racial healing.” If you’re lucky, you can meet Tate, whose office will be in the thick of the displays.

US Democratic presidential candidate Ill

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The site: <a href="https://www.dookychaserestaurants.com/" target=_blank>Dooky Chase’s Restaurant</a>, New Orleans.

What happened here: Civil rights leaders, lawyers, activists and Freedom Riders gathered in the second-floor dining room to strategize. Participants including Thurgood Marshall, the Rev. A.L. Davis, Oretha Castle Haley and, on occasion, the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. planned sit-ins, boycotts and protests over meals prepared by Leah Chase, the “Queen of Creole Cuisine.” “My mother always said we changed the course of America with our gumbo,” Stella Chase Reese said of the executive chef who owned the restaurant with her husband, Dooky.

Atlanta’s unexpected civil rights museum: Its airport

While you’re there: Eat lunch (Tuesday-Friday) or dinner (Friday and Saturday). Reese recommends getting the gumbo, the signature dish, or sampling any number of Creole or Southern classics, such as crawfish étouffée, shrimp Creole and fried chicken. In addition to serving award-winning food, the Chases amassed one of the country’s finest collections of African American art. Roughly 80 paintings and sculptures fill the bar and multiple dining rooms, with works by such celebrated artists as Jacob Lawrence, Elizabeth Catlett and Chase Kamata, the granddaughter of Leah and Dooky. During your lap around the 81-year-old establishment, check out photographs of famous diners (Barack Obama ate here); Disney illustrations of Tiana, the “Princess and the Frog” character modeled after Leah; and mementos including a condolence letter from former president George W. Bush to the Chases after Leah’s death in 2019.

The site: <a href="https://downtownbatonrouge.org/discover-downtown/places/a-z-young-park" target="_blank">A.Z. Young Park</a>, Baton Rouge.

What happened here: On Aug. 10, 1967, activists A.Z. Young, Robert Hicks and Gayle Jenkins set off on a 105-mile march from Bogalusa to Baton Rouge, where Young would present a number of racial injustices to the governor at the steps of the Capitol. The journey took 10 days and ballooned from 25 to 600 participants. About 2,200 members of the National Guard and police force protected the demonstrators from enraged opponents to their cause. The march resulted in improved employment and voting practices for African Americans.

While you’re there: Traipse through 27 acres of manicured grounds at the <a href="https://www.crt.state.la.us/tourism/welcome-centers/state-capitol/index" target=_blank>Louisiana Capitol</a>, the country’s tallest state capitol. The man in the center of the regal gardens is Huey Long, the U.S. senator who was assassinated inside the capitol that he built during his term as governor (1928-1932). A 12-foot-tall bronze statue of the “Kingfish” marks his final resting place. Inside the Capitol, pick up a brochure or schedule a guided tour of the 450-foot-tall Art Deco building. From the 27th-floor observation deck, take in the sweeping views of downtown Baton Rouge, the Mississippi River and, of nearly equal stature, Louisiana State University’s Tiger Stadium. At the Louisiana House Dining Hall, ask a legislator to pass the salt and pepper. The eatery is closed but should reopen for breakfast and lunch in mid-March, when the legislative session convenes.

Old Louisiana State Capitol Building in Baton Rouge

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The site: Outside the Old State Capitol, Baton Rouge.

What happened here: On June 19, 1953, scores of Black passengers, who made up about 80 percent of ridership, boycotted the city’s buses to protest discriminatory policies. Hundreds of African Americans with cars volunteered to drive the demonstrators to and from work. The boycott ended four days later, when the bus company and city officials hammered out a (controversial) compromise with the Rev. T.J. Jemison. In Alabama, King and the Montgomery Improvement Association adopted Baton Rouge’s car-share arrangement in their bus boycott that started in December 1955.

While you’re there: Pop into the <a href="https://louisianaoldstatecapitol.org/" target=_blank>Old State Capitol</a>, a free museum. On the first floor, learn about the Plessy v. Ferguson case, which upheld the “separate but equal” doctrine. A framed document signed by Gov. John Bel Edwards (D) on Jan. 5 pardons Homer A. Plessy for violating the Separate Car Act of 1890. In the same room, a short film touches on civil rights events in Baton Rouge, including the courageous act of a Black woman named Pearl, who sat in the White section of a bus and asked other passengers to join her and hold hands in solidarity.

Louisiana Civil Rights Trail gets additional markers

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Louisiana Civil Rights Trail marks a long road to equality 

Charleston South Carolina downtown business district

Things to do in Charleston, S.C. - The Washington Post

Shepard Fairey left Charleston, S.C., after high school, but the artist still pops up in his hometown, even when he’s thousands of miles away. He appears at College Lodge, a dormitory at the <a href="https://www.cofc.edu/" target=_blank>College of Charleston</a>. Outside <a href="https://www.grouchos.com/charleston/" target=_blank>Groucho’s Deli</a>, a corner sandwich shop. And across from the <a href="https://shopthedaily.com/charleston" target=_blank>Daily</a>, a coffeehouse that sells honey lavender lattes and feta toast.

“Three murals are still up — two on King, one on Calhoun,” Shepard said of the public artworks he created for a 2014 show at the College of Charleston’s <a href="https://halsey.cofc.edu/" target=_blank>Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art</a>, six years after he designed the campaign-defining “Hope” poster of Barack Obama. “There still aren’t a ton of murals in Charleston because of the historical preservation, but I think the appreciation for street art is growing.”

Andrea Sachs

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Edgar Allan Poe Museum marks 100 years celebrating master of the macabre

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Shepard Fairey on art, skateboarding and the culture of change in Charleston, S.C.

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With Hertz, road-trippers can get a charge out of Tesla rentals