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While dozens of restaurants have sprung up around this Spanish retreat in Logan Circle in recent seasons, I still like to make time for an occasional date with the small plates and sherry cocktails at Estadio.

Fluffy eggs scrambled with foie gras and dolloped on toasted bread call to the hedonist in me, while golden mushroom croquettes with silky red pepper demonstrate a kitchen that’s (almost) as welcoming to vegetarians as to meatheads. Cantaloupe bursting with juices and sheer slices of winy ham remind us that some of life’s best moments are unfussy ones.

Estadio doesn’t have the range of Jaleo, and flaws like grit in otherwise tasty, chili-punched sauteed kale get in the way of greater applause.

There are no bad seats in this Old World setting; a table near the big windows is as fun as a stool at the bar or a ringside perch looking into the open kitchen. True to its name, Estadio can be noisy as a “stadium” at full tilt. But good food and drink are worth any ruckus.