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The big talent at tiny Etto in Logan Circle is Cagla Onal-Urel, a Turkish native whose Italian small plates underscore the idea that simple can be sublime. Witness her silvery bar of mackerel reclining on soft roasted peppers and Sicilian green olives or her lobster bites arranged on herbed chickpeas, and don’t forget to order some of the sausage she makes, especially pork seasoned with fennel pollen and orange peel. Before Etto, she cooked at the esteemed Obelisk in Dupont Circle, which explains such polished performances as rabbit bundled into an elegant roll with a thin omelet and roasted peppers, then banded with prosciutto.

The handsome mill in the dining room, the stone oven near the front counter and a tableau of salads whet an appetite for pizza, as might Etto’s link to the popular 2 Amys. (The restaurants share owners.) Just keep in mind: Etto’s pie is different, made with spelt and cooked at a higher temperature.

Ignore, if you can, the stares of the crowd in the packed entrance and stay for dessert. A plate of homemade candies is worth any guilt about lingering.