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Every day feels like Oktoberfest at everyone’s favorite beer garden, which changed its name from the Standard after a New York business of the same name raised a stink. Whatever you call the place, the fence-enclosed picnic tables on 14th Street NW are some of the most prized seats in the city.

Here’s why: The smoky pulled pork sandwich crammed with fresh coleslaw whisks you to North Carolina, the giant glasses of Hofbrau lager put you in a Munich mood and the Goliath buttermilk-battered onion rings and fluffy-centered hush puppies force difficult decisions (so get them both).

The changes in the joint’s short life — additional seating outside, a smoked pigs head for $25, doughnuts Thursdays through Sundays — have only made what used to be a plant center better. At a time when almost everything can be had on demand, and seasons can be indistinguishable from one another, it’s nice to know about a place that shuts down before winter and reopens March 1. There are 14 stools in the building that houses the kitchen and stores the beer, but no one but tourists or buds of the bar man sit there if they can help it.

The sleeper on the brief menu is the hamburger. Built with brisket and chuck and patted by hand, it proves anything but standard.