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Brushed-concrete floors, shiny stainless-steel tables and sky-high skylights create an industrial stage for all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue (and more) at the youthful Kogiya. One option involves five different meats ($20.99). Another, for the more adventurous, throws into the mix three kinds of intestines ($27.99).

This is a group-friendly and thoughtful place to feast on meat that’s grilled at your table and comes with a swarm of tasty side dishes, sometimes including sesame seed leaves. Beer stays cold in frosted mugs, and chairs double as chests for stowing coats (and anything else you might want to keep away from the smoke).

From the window-wrapped kitchen come crisp squid pancakes that taste like hash browns from the sea, and comforting bibimbap, rice topped with sweet beef and vegetables.

Credit for the better-than-usual service goes to owner Sylvia Cho, who was a food and beverage manager at the Ritz-Carlton before she rolled out in March the trendiest Korean barbecue around.