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Even some regulars will tell you that Cafe Milano, 21, is more about the clientele than the cucina, but my last dinner in the Georgetown ristorante helps explain why Le Diplomate in Logan Circle has become the club of choice for most VIPs and wannabes to see and be scene. The French hotspot is nice to you even if you’re an unknown diner, and its food tastes like what you might actually find in Paris. Sometimes snooty, Cafe Milano hands diners an overpriced wine list ahead of serving them their depressing food: thick, tasteless veal Milanese that’s not the least bit crisp, and branzino that’s void of flavor, so finish your nicely cooked baby vegetables. Then fill up on the fried calamari mixed with crisp zucchini coins for contrast. And try not to stare at CNN’s Wolf Blitzer or Secretary of State John Kerry, among the boldfaced names that still pop in. Lobster crudo is pleasant enough; truffle-flavored ice cream is better than it sounds. The server may put in a plug for some pasta prepared tableside, which feels like an upsell yet turns out to be the highlight of the evening: hot, house-made tagliatelle stirred around the bowl of a big wheel of Parmesan. Simple and satisfying, it could use more company.