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Chef-owner Scot Harlan says he doesn’t dare take the “buffalo” ribs off the menu at Green Pig Bistro, and hurrah for that. A play on common Buffalo chicken wings, the Lincoln logs of red protein rising from its base of blue cheese dressing are, in reality, spice-rubbed pork ribs cooled down with long ribbons of celery atop the peak. I half expect to look up and see Fred Flintsone working in the exhibition kitchen. Instead, I spy chef de cuisine Pierre Saussy, born in Puerto Rico and responsible for another crowd-pleaser here, fried-to-order pork shank propped up by a mound of pigeon peas and mofongo, or green plantains mashed with garlic and bacon. While pork plays a central role on the American menu, it’s not the only meat you should eat. Kung pao sweetbreads, a holdover appetizer from the bistro’s launch, remain the joyride of lamb, crushed peanuts and gingery soy sauce I remember from before. Snails and creamy mushrooms on toasted bread, meanwhile, pair well with one night’s Motown soundtrack: easy comfort, easy listening. In another life, Harlan was a pastry chef, and his pies of the day (for two), maybe old-fashioned pecan in a buttery crust, make a sweet impression. But I’m just as happy ending dinner with a look-see of the owner’s collection of cookbooks separating snug bar from cozy dining room. At Green Pig Bistro, the vibe, like the food, is fun.