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If you were disappointed by a performance at Restaurant Eve last year, blame a kitchen that churned out more than 60 different dishes for its bar, bistro and formal dining room — “too much,” admits founder Cathal Armstrong. As Eve approached its 10th anniversary this year, the executive chef vowed to return to the kitchen six nights a week when his No. 2 left to open a place of his own last winter. Armstrong also did away with the bistro in order to turn the establishment into a strictly fine-dining destination. What a difference some streamlining and more discipline make! The owner’s revised strategy finds breezier service, a lighter color scheme and cooking that’s both straightforward and sophisticated: bay-fresh rockfish with a spring bouquet of carrots and peas, “first of the season” morel mushrooms with plump poached lobster, a thick rib-eye spread with horseradish cream and not one but six onion rings the size of bracelets. Amazingly, the golden tower arrives at the table intact. Armstrong makes even pork belly seem new again, by staging two bars of brined, barbecue-glazed meat on a slate canvas along with a totem of sushi rice topped with a quail egg and a vinegar- and chili-laced dipping sauce. Filipino heaven. To get the night rolling, the kitchen sends out a luscious treat, lamb tartare on a crouton with sunny aioli during my spring fling. Before the evening ends, you might find yourself licking the bowl of a warm rice pudding centered with apple cider sorbet, or a jiggly pistachio panna cotta set off with fried sage. Sour cream pound cake, on the other hand, needs every bit of its Meyer lemon ice cream to combat the dry centerpiece. Still, Eve sweats the small stuff. Bread is baked throughout the evening to ensure freshness, and bar star Todd Thrasher pairs the food with drinks that linger in your memory like a good song. Party (back) on, Eve!