The Majestic

Returning to Majestic after a long absence felt like reuniting with an old flame. Would there still be sparks? Or would the passage of time alter my affection for the cozy American dining room owned by the talent behind Restaurant Eve and Society Fair, also in Old Town? The date started out well enough, with ’80s-themed cocktails that suggested the Midori-green melon ball might have a chance to resurrect its career. And I was buoyed to see that the popular Caesar salad tossed tableside had been joined by another optional show, guacamole prepared to your heat preference and doled out with hot, house-made tortillas. Onion rings, on the other hand, were notable for their size and greasiness, and a slab of meatloaf tasted as if it had been released by Swanson’s rather than a veteran chef. (Not so the buttery mashed potatoes.) Whole fish was carefully cooked and treated to Asian accents, but lamb roulade arrived as a dark and daunting mound of tough meat that went back to the open kitchen largely untouched. It didn’t help that the pacing was off all night. One of my gang was always waiting for a tardy dish, or for someone to bring a wine list. My mixed reaction to a one-time crush (dig the brat sandwich at lunch but not the egg drop soup) extends to dessert, which continues to feature a titanic slab of coconut cake (leftovers of which continue to go home with me for a late-night finish). Say yes to the sugar-sprinkled churros, served hot in a paper bag, but no to the routine chocolate creme brûlée. Majestic? “Meh” is more like it these days.