The Washington Post

2015 Spring Dining Guide

Tom Sietsema revisits 14 restaurants. Which are better than ever, and which are the worse for wear?

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A Japanese egg on a nest of julienned squid and thin fried leeks at Sushiko. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)
A Japanese egg on a nest of julienned squid and thin fried leeks at Sushiko. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Never trust a restaurant review older than a year. Chefs stir and split, menus get rewritten, service goes in and out of focus, dining rooms age naturally or go under the knife.

Which is why every year around this time I like to revisit a mix of previously tasted restaurants. Surely I'm not the only patron of the food arts curious to know if an oldie is still a goodie or whether a destination still merits the drive.

Getting hungry? Fourteen reviews — some good, some sad, all fresh — await your attention in my my sixth annual spring fling.

After taking a turn for the casual, Bertrand Chemel hits refined notes once again.
The bucolic property serves dishes that are every bit as attractive as the surroundings.
Polished service and stylish surroundings can’t elevate food that is often merely satisfying.
Ryan LaRoche has imbued the menu with fresh ideas and sharp execution.
Todd Gray’s restaurant recaptures its stride by embracing meatless meals.
The H Street restaurant retains a homey warmth, but other Ethiopian purveyors may do it better.
Former Eola chef Daniel Singhofen helps the cooking live up to the decor.
The Southern-Belgian theme does well by steamed mussels; the rest is a loud bore.
Attentive service and potent Middle Eastern flavors are hallmarks of this Arlington eatery.
Ris Lacoste’s West End dining room balances the rustic and the elegant.
It’s not the most extravagant sushi spectacle, but several ovation-worthy moments await.
Chef Patrick Robinson is now front and center in the open kitchen in Shaw.
The homey Eastport bungalow serves playful pies and bistro fare that draw a crowd.
A three-way recipe competition featuring a star of spring pits a chilled soup against foie gras.
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