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Visitor at the Museo de Arte Moderno.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE

A guide to local favorites in Barracas and San Telmo

Visitor at the Museo de Arte Moderno.
  • By Abel Escudero Zadrayec
  • Photos by Erica Canepa
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Barracas & San Telmo
Buenos Aires
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One Parisian-looking block of Avenida Caseros, a long street on the border of the Barracas and San Telmo neighborhoods, is a little gastronomic hub just five minutes from the drone of tourists. There are nine options within 300 feet. Try the Italian dishes at Nápoles, traditional bodegón food (like an extensive tavern menu) at La Popular, craft beer at On Tap and ice cream at El Fundador. Their surroundings offer even more activities.

Meet Abel Escudero Zadrayec

After spending seven years in Buenos Aires in the '90s and early 2000s, Abel moved back in 2016. He’s proudly “bahiense” — that is, from Bahía Blanca, the home of former NBA star Manu Ginobili and Nobel Prize winner César Milstein. Abel loves fútbol, asado, IPAs and traveling.

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Barracas & San Telmo

Museo Histórico Nacional
Learn about Argentina’s history in a 19th-century mansion. Guided tours are in English at noon. Open Wednesday through Sunday. Admission is free.
Museo Histórico Nacional, Defensa 1600. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

1880
You’ll receive excellent attention at this traditional steakhouse. If you can save room for dessert, try a classic el vigilante (sliced cheese with quince jam). A divisive opinion: It should never be paired with sweet-potato jam.
1800, Defensa 1665. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad
This Russian Orthodox church with bright-blue onion domes is open to the public and includes an impressive iconostasis, a wall of religious icons and paintings. You can set up a guided tour in English by contacting the church through its website.
Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad, Av. Brasil 315. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

Feria Parque Lezama
In this big park, the extensive Saturday-Sunday outdoor market leads to crowds, but it isn’t as touristy as the San Telmo market a few blocks north.
Feria Parque Lezama, Av. Martín García 341-365. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

Manolo
Here you’ll find abundant and tasty dishes in a true bodegón (tavern) environment. You’ll love the bifes (steaks), tortillas (Spanish omelet) and milanesas (breaded meat).
Manolo, Bolívar 1299. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

Museo de Arte Moderno
The city-owned Museum of Modern Art is free on Wednesdays (otherwise, admission is about $1). English tours are given at 3:30 p.m. on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Museo de Arte Moderno, Av. San Juan 350. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
This private collection of national and international works puts an emphasis on geometric abstraction. Tickets are $3.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, Av. San Juan 328. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Website

There's more to see
Abel Escudero Zadrayec
After spending seven years in Buenos Aires in the '90s and early 2000s, Abel moved back in 2016. He’s proudly “bahiense” — that is, from Bahía Blanca, the home of former NBA star Manu Ginobili and Nobel Prize winner César Milstein. Abel loves fútbol, asado, IPAs and traveling.
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Erica Canepa
Erica is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Buenos Aires.
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