A guide to local favorites in Barracas and San Telmo Buenos Aires
One Parisian-looking block of Avenida Caseros, a long street on the border of the Barracas and San Telmo neighborhoods, is a little gastronomic hub just five minutes from the drone of tourists. There are nine options within 300 feet. Try the Italian dishes at Nápoles, traditional bodegón food (like an extensive tavern menu) at La Popular, craft beer at On Tap and ice cream at El Fundador. Their surroundings offer even more activities.
Meet your local
After spending seven years in Buenos Aires in the '90s and early 2000s, Abel moved back in 2016. He’s proudly “bahiense” — that is, from Bahía Blanca, the home of former NBA star Manu Ginobili and Nobel Prize winner César Milstein. Abel loves fútbol, asado, IPAs and traveling.
abel_ezWant to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
I live in Puerto Madero. It’s a safe, beautiful neighborhood where one can score sweet real estate deals.
Best way to get around the city:
The Subte, or metro, is a great way to avoid traffic, but it is often crowded and the service isn’t great. You’ll need a SUBE card to use public transportation. Buy one for $2 in train stations, kiosks and other shops.
Don’t leave without having:
A taste of all of the delicious sweets Buenos Aires has to offer. Cookies known as alfajores are the Argentinian treat. Try the Havanna brand made with 70 percent cocoa.
But the local favorite is really:
Asado feasts with friends that go on for hours and feature lots of wine.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
Heading to the stadium to support River Plate, a professional sports club based in the Núñez neighborhood.
Barracas & San Telmo
Museo Histórico Nacional
Learn about Argentina’s history in a 19th-century mansion. Guided tours are in English at noon. Open Wednesday through Sunday. Admission is free.
Museo Histórico Nacional, Defensa 1600. Buenos Aires, Argentina
1880
You’ll receive excellent attention at this traditional steakhouse. If you can save room for dessert, try a classic el vigilante (sliced cheese with quince jam). A divisive opinion: It should never be paired with sweet-potato jam.
1800, Defensa 1665. Buenos Aires, Argentina
Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad
This Russian Orthodox church with bright-blue onion domes is open to the public and includes an impressive iconostasis, a wall of religious icons and paintings. You can set up a guided tour in English by contacting the church through its website.
Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad, Av. Brasil 315. Buenos Aires, Argentina
Feria Parque Lezama
In this big park, the extensive Saturday-Sunday outdoor market leads to crowds, but it isn’t as touristy as the San Telmo market a few blocks north.
Feria Parque Lezama, Av. Martín García 341-365. Buenos Aires, Argentina
Manolo
Here you’ll find abundant and tasty dishes in a true bodegón (tavern) environment. You’ll love the bifes (steaks), tortillas (Spanish omelet) and milanesas (breaded meat).
Manolo, Bolívar 1299. Buenos Aires, Argentina
Museo de Arte Moderno
The city-owned Museum of Modern Art is free on Wednesdays (otherwise, admission is about $1). English tours are given at 3:30 p.m. on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Museo de Arte Moderno, Av. San Juan 350. Buenos Aires, Argentina
Abel Escudero Zadrayec
After spending seven years in Buenos Aires in the '90s and early 2000s, Abel moved back in 2016. He’s proudly “bahiense” — that is, from Bahía Blanca, the home of former NBA star Manu Ginobili and Nobel Prize winner César Milstein. Abel loves fútbol, asado, IPAs and traveling.
@abel_ezErica Canepa
Erica is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Buenos Aires.
@ericacanepa
