Democracy Dies in Darkness
Skip to main content
Detours with locals. Travel tips you can trust.
chevron-down
Hamshuka and mint lemonade served at Neni restaurant.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE

A guide to local favorites in Freihausviertel

Hamshuka and mint lemonade served at Neni restaurant.
  • By Susanne Gottlieb
  • Photos by Stefan Fuertbauer
Neighborhoodschevron-down
Freihausviertel
Vienna
geopinView on Google Maps
Share

With its buzzing streets, shops and bar scene, the multicultural Freihausviertel is the best option if you’re looking for a good time. Originally the location of a huge building complex, the Freihaus, the neighborhood is now Vienna’s bohemian centerpiece, where you can cozy up in one of the many bars and clubs frequented by art enthusiasts and students. The street Schleifmühlgasse highlights the area’s diverse gastronomy and contemporary art. The Naschmarkt, a giant public market, gives foodies epiphanies.

Meet Susanne Gottlieb

Susanne has lived in Vienna since 2006. She originally moved there from the south of Austria to attend university and, like many before her, never left. She is now working as a freelance journalist and film critic for Austrian and international outlets. In her free time, she is either sitting in a dark screening room or enjoying a cup of coffee.

Want to get in touch?

mail-solidEmail bytheway@washpost.com
Read more about Susannechevron-down

Freihausviertel

Vollpension
The ladies who run this cute little spot will spoil you with baked goodies and are always up for a chat. The whole experience may give you nostalgic flashbacks to sitting in your grandmother’s dining room while having a big slice of homemade cake.
Vollpension, Schleifmühlgasse 16, 1040 Vienna, Austria
Zweitbester
True to the area’s proclivity for fusing concepts, this modern and industrial bar and restaurant serves up a busy nightlife and holds exhibitions and cooking classes. What’s more, the chefs rotate: In the past, this establishment has had everyone from a visiting gourmet chef to a local grandmother.
Heumühlgasse 2, 1040 Vienna, Austria
Filmcasino theater
Stepping through the doors of the movie theater Filmcasino is like taking a journey back in time. The glitzy neon sign, old-school box office and dark-wood paneling on the walls will engulf you in their ’50s ambiance. Even better, to every cinephile’s delight, the program consists of independent productions shown in their original languages.
Margaretenstrasse 78, 1050 Vienna, Austria
Neni
The restaurant of Tel Aviv native Haya Molcho and her sons is one of the best and prettiest on the Naschmarkt. Its Middle Eastern vibe is matched only by the friendly staff and the warm wooden interior. Try the hamshuka and indulge in a famous Neni cheesecake.
Naschmarkt 510, 1060 Vienna, Austria
Schikaneder
Named for a contemporary of Mozart, the Schikaneder is the scene for hipsters, students and music lovers. A bar and an arthouse cinema, the venue welcomes a different DJ every night and offers snacks until 3 a.m.
Margaretenstrasse 24, A, 1040 Vienna, Austria
There's more to see
Susanne Gottlieb
Susanne has lived in Vienna since 2006. She originally moved there from the south of Austria to attend university and, like many before her, never left. She is now working as a freelance journalist and film critic for Austrian and international outlets. In her free time, she is either sitting in a dark screening room or enjoying a cup of coffee.
Stefan Fuertbauer
Stefan, a contributing photographer to The Washington Post, was born and raised in the Austrian countryside but was drawn over 20 years ago to Vienna, where he lives now. He’s an admirer of the Austrian capital’s people and lifestyle and loves a good cup of melange (similar to cappuccino but different). When not racing his bike through traffic, he enjoys a relaxed ride on the tram, preferably on one of the models from the ’60s still running.

CITY GUIDES