CITY GUIDE
A local’s guide to Reykjavik, Iceland
- By Inga Kristin Skuladottir
- Photos by Ernir Eyjolfsson
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Neighborhoods
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Reykjavik was once a hidden gem — calm and fairly secluded from the world — until about a decade ago, when tourism took it by storm. The nation that has since become known as “Instagram Island” has seen the travel world’s spotlight land on its small and slow-paced capital.
The town is exceptionally welcoming with its relaxed and friendly atmosphere, enhanced by the ocean view and mountains in the distance. But don’t call us sleepy: Locals know how to rage, sometimes not even showing up to the party until the wee hours of the morning. Reykjavik is also known to breed talented musicians, to the extent that some people think there must be something in the water. So come take a dip in our famous pools and find out.
Meet Inga Skuladottir
A local to the bone, Inga was born and raised in downtown Reykjavik. Ever since childhood she has been threading the streets of her city, making sure no nook or cranny goes undiscovered.
Want to get in touch?
Email bytheway@washpost.comRead more about Inga
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Stay
Laugavegur
Packed with a diverse selection of restaurants, bars and nightclubs, Laugavegur, a main artery, is an equally ideal location for those who come to experience the noteworthy nightlife and those who want to keep things simple and land conveniently in the midst of things as they step outside their door. On and around this street you’ll find numerous options for places to stay, from Airbnbs to luxurious hotels. Find this neighborhood.
Vesturbaerinn
Vesturbaerinn is a residential area that will make you feel at home. Quilted with houses of all shapes and sizes, with old and grown gardens, you can soak up the neighborhood’s calmness and diverse architecture yet only be a quick walk or a short bus ride from the hustle and bustle of the main downtown area. Airbnb options are abundant, from individual rooms to entire villas. The Radisson Blu Saga Hotel is known for its high-end restaurant on the top floor, where you can dine with a view over the city and surrounding mountains. Find this neighborhood.
Neighborhoods
Explore more of Reykjavik, Iceland
Eat
Bernhoftsbakari
The only proper way to start your morning in Iceland is with freshly baked bread from a local bakery. Bernhoftsbakari, dating to 1834, is the oldest of its kind, having been owned and operated by the same family ever since. Although it has had various locations around town, it’s now close to the coast, making it a smart stop before visiting the Harpa or Sun Voyager.
BTW: Get the hazelnut croissant for dessert and float around town on a pink cloud the rest of the day.
Bernhoftsbakari, 3 Klapparstigur, Reykjavik, 101
Grai Kotturinn
A homey little spot in the cellar of an old house, just across the street from the national theater, Grai Kotturinn (or the Gray Cat) serves only breakfast. Whether you want a full brunch with eggs and bacon or just a cup of coffee, this place will gently wake you up and ease you into the day. This small restaurant fills up quickly: Grab a table if one is available, but be prepared to wait at the bar until something opens up. No need to fret, though: Shelves and shelves of books can entertain you while you wait.
BTW: Ask them to mix you a blend of malt and appelsin, the traditional local holiday drink.
Grai Kotturinn, 16a Hverfisgata, Reykjavik, 101
Snaps
This French bistro was a hit right from the start, undoubtedly thanks to an extensive menu of fresh, elegant dishes such as escargot and Norwegian eggs. Serving delicious food in a beautiful setting, this place has become the go-to spot for Sunday brunch with the family or a proper lunch with your date. Part of the space is just glass windows, allowing natural light to flow in. With white tablecloths, hanging lanterns and living plants all around, the result is a romantic mixture of greenhouse and terrace.
BTW: Ask to sit by the window.
Snaps, 1 Thorsgata, Reykjavik, 101
Hlemmur Matholl (food hall)
Serving as the main transportation hub for decades, Hlemmur is pivotal to the city’s structure. For a long time, this bus terminal was a den for Reykjavik’s social misfits, shabby and run-down and mostly avoided by other locals. After sticking out like a sore thumb for years, Hlemmur was finally given a makeover, and today it’s a funky food hall, offering affordable yet excellent food in a laid-back market atmosphere.
BTW: Fish tacos, bahn mi sandwiches, grilled steaks and Danish smorrebrod are some of the mouthwatering eats you can find here, but sharing a few gorgeous dishes at Skal with a friend and washing it down with a glass of natural wine is especially recommended.
Hlemmur Matholl, 107 Laugavegur, Reykjavik, 101
Thrir Frakkar
This restaurant with deep roots is known for its traditional local cuisine, specializing in fish but also serving the renowned Icelandic lamb and more eccentric — maybe, to outsiders, controversial — dishes like whale and puffin. The setting is warm and welcoming, with wooden interiors and fishing decorations. You’ll feel like you’re over for dinner at somebody’s house — or on someone’s boat.
BTW: Order the hashed fish with black bread, an everyday meal in Icelandic households.
Thrir Frakkar, 14 Baldursgata, Reykjavik, 101
Vitabar
Passing by, you might think this small pub is closed. The atmosphere isn’t much, but here you can dig into a juicy steak and burger. On weekdays, the place is quiet, with mostly solitary day drinkers reading their paper. But on Saturday and Sundays, you’ll see hung-over zombies crawling through the door in packs, getting the secret cure to their ailments: a Vitabar burger. If you want a little hair of the dog instead, Icelandic beer is on tap and spirits are behind the bar.
BTW: Get the blue cheese burger. It’s a local favorite.
Vitabar, 21 Bergthorugata, Reykjavik, 101
Baejarins Beztu Pylsur
Whether you like hot dogs or not, this place is one you shouldn’t miss. With a name that literally translates to “the best sausage in town,” the stand has been open in this downtown harborside location since 1937. Boiled in beer-infused water, these dogs are probably unlike anything you’ve ever had. Their signature is “one with everything,” which includes onions and rémoulade, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish that’s a common condiment. The hot dogs that burst in the pot are put to the side and kept for dog owners looking to treat their furry friends.
BTW: Ask for a “double barrel” if you’re hungry, and you’ll get two dogs in your bun.
Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, Posthusstraeti & Tryggvagata, Reykjavik, 101
Prikid
In a little timber house in the middle of downtown, this bar is usually packed with its loyal regulars who come every weekend for the hip-hop scene and DJs. Because of its size, you will have to squeeze into the pulsating crowd for the best experience, but for a calmer vibe, move to the upper floor. When it closes, head on home for a nap and return for their extensive menu of both burgers and vegan options when you wake up.
BTW: Hold onto the railing going up and down the stairs. Or, if you want the local experience of falling down them at least once, don’t.
Prikid, 12 Bankastraeti, Reykjavik, 101
LOCALS THINK YOU SHOULD KNOW
- If you’re in it for the nightlife, make sure you stay downtown past 2 a.m. The locals won’t show up until then — and they bring the party.
- Showering rules at the pools are nonnegotiable. Everyone must wash thoroughly without their swimsuit before entering the pools or hot tubs. No exceptions, ever.
- Despite popular belief, the average Icelander doesn’t believe in elves.
Do
Hofdi
This beautiful white house, built in 1909, is one of the most historic sites in the city, known for hosting a famous meeting between President Ronald Reagan and Soviet Union leader Mikhail Gorbachev in 1986, eventually leading to the end of the Cold War. The house is believed to have its own ghost, “the White Lady,” according to a former British ambassador and resident. You can’t go inside, but against a backdrop of Faxafloi Bay and beautiful Mount Esja, it’s perfect for watching the sunset after a busy day of exploring the city.
BTW: Don’t miss the piece of the Berlin Wall that stands close by.
Hofdi, Borgartun, Reykjavik, 105
Kolaportid
Visitors flood this indoor market every time it opens, some in search of rare gems and others just to get their hoarding fix. But most come to browse antiques and stock up on flatbread and fish jerky. Here you might find everything from tacky lava-stone jewelry to first-edition novels by Icelandic writer Halldor Laxness. In the food section, don’t leave without a bag of kleinur (fried pastry) or a kokosbolla (a frosting-filled chocolate shell encased in coconut shavings) in your hand.
BTW: Bring cash. Most of the vendors don’t take credit cards.
Kolaportid, 19 Tryggvagata, Reykjavik, 101
Austurvollur
As soon as the sun starts peeking out in spring, people flock to grassy Austurvollur square. They lay out blankets on the lawn or find a sunny spot at one of the surrounding cafes, applying tanning oil to make sure they get a sunburn, which, as any Icelander will tell you, “eventually turns into a tan.” This is often the site for protests big and small when the public feels compelled to keep Parliament or the government in check.
BTW: Skip the cafes for drinks and get them cheaper at a Vinbudin store close by. Drinking alcohol outdoors is perfectly legal.
Austurvollur, Reykjavik, 101
Fischer
For centuries, Iceland has been described as pure and raw, and its nature is embodied in this unique family-owned shop. You’ll find herbal remedies, natural toothpaste, deodorant and tea blends, along with ambient music and textures that are meant to affect your mood. It can feel like a dream. So, climb inside, close the door behind you, and let the sensory magic take you deep into the island’s soul.
BTW: The store is managed by Sigurros, whom the rock band Sigur Ros is named after.
Fischer, 3 Fischersund, Reykjavik, 101
Oskjuhlid
In the hills below Perlan, one of the most popular spots for a view over the city, is a forest full of World War II remnants and wild rabbits. Easily reached by bus or by walking from downtown, this area is great for some light hiking or even a dip in the water down in Nautholsvik, a tiny white-sand beach close by. During the war, thousands of soldiers lived by the shore in army sheds, and one of the last remaining ones was recently restored and turned into a restaurant called Bragginn. It’s perfect for a refreshing drink after chasing rabbits around the woods.
BTW: In Nautholsvik, there is also a relaxing hot tub open to everyone.
Oskjuhlid, Reykjavik, 105.
Gamla Bio moviehouse
Gamla Bio (in English, the “old theater”) first opened its doors in 1926 and is one of the go-to spots for local entertainment, covering everything from stand-up comedy to full-blown heavy metal concerts. The venue is right in the middle of downtown and has a rooftop bar overlooking the center of it, perfect for a drink before the show.
BTW: It also has live music at the rooftop bar every Thursday (free entrance).
Ingolfsstraeti 2a, Reykjavik, 101
Inga Kristin Skuladottir
A local to the bone, Inga was born and raised in downtown Reykjavik. Ever since childhood she has been threading the streets of her city, making sure no nook or cranny goes undiscovered.
Ernir Eyjolfsson
Ernir is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post. Born in Reykjavik and raised mostly there, he has been working as a news photographer for almost 10 years. His favorite place to photograph is Thufa, and when he craves something greasy he loves grabbing a burger at Bullan.