CITY GUIDE
A local’s guide to Tel Aviv
- By Viva Sarah Press
- Photos by Corinna Kern
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Whether you’ve come to Tel Aviv for its pristine beaches or thriving nightlife, for its art scene or because you heard it’s one of the world’s friendliest cities for vegans, to experience its start-up culture or because of its charming neighborhoods, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for.
Each neighborhood presents a different side of the city, be it historical Old Jaffa, with buildings dating back thousands of years; artsy Neve Tzedek, with beautifully restored 19th-century streets lined with jewelry and designer-clothing boutiques; or Kikar Hamedina, with its sophisticated cafes and stores.
Tel Aviv life is about adoring the beach, enjoying the outdoors, lingering with friends over coffee, rubbing shoulders with strangers at a market and being open to trying new foods. It is about watching the sunset, strolling along a boulevard or the beach promenade and, if you’re young at heart, going out until the early hours of tomorrow.
Meet Viva Press
Viva moved to Israel in 1998 and to Tel Aviv in 2003. Her three kids have no idea how nice it is to grow up with 300 days of sunny weather and be able to do all sorts of outdoor activities year-round — quite the opposite from her Canadian childhood.
Want to get in touch?
Email bytheway@washpost.comRead more about Viva
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Lev Ha’Ir
Lev Ha’Ir, which translates from Hebrew to “the heart of the city,” is truly the beating pulse of Tel Aviv. This area is buzzing with action day and night, and it caters to everyone from start-up entrepreneurs to hipsters, young families to seniors, secular Jews to ultra-Orthodox. Rothschild Boulevard is at the center of all the action; its buildings are a mix of new, high-tech skyscrapers and the beautiful, distinctive white Bauhaus buildings for which Tel Aviv is famous. In this neighborhood, luxury yet funky boutique hotels continue to pop up, or you can try Airbnb options. Find this neighborhood.
Old North
Close to beaches and the city’s Yarkon Park, with cultural centers, cafes and bars, and popular fashion and entertainment sites within its boundaries (including Tel Aviv Port, Basel Square and Metzitzim Beach), this upscale neighborhood is a quieter alternative to the heart of the city but no less attractive. The tree-lined streets and boulevards exude an aroma of fresh-ground coffee from all the kiosks and neighborhood cafes. Watch out for whizzing e-bikes and scooters and be prepared to pet the dogs — Tel Aviv is a dog-obsessed city. Find this neighborhood.
Eat
Cafe Zorik
Located in Milano Square, a quiet spot just off Ibn Gabirol Street, Zorik has been serving some of the city’s best breakfast options since 2004. This colorful, airy cafe has a chilled-out playlist and mixes a menu of vegan items, comfort food and decadent goodies. Indulge in pancakes with toffee sauce and mascarpone cream or treat yourself to a Camembert-filled sweet croissant. The traditional “Israeli breakfast” here (offered at every cafe) of eggs, baked goods, salad, cheeses and spreads also earns distinction.
BTW: In addition to its famed breakfasts, people come from all over the city to eat chicken schnitzel and the “iron” herb-heavy salad for lunch and dinner.
4A Yehuda HaMakkabbi St., Tel Aviv, 6266905 Israel
Tamara
There are juice bars, and then there’s Tamara. This fresh juice-smoothies-bowls stand is a city landmark. Fresh fruit and vegetables are piled high on this round kiosk, which magnetizes a swarm of people at all hours of the day. Every combination is possible and made-to-order. Try the sweet banana-date-pecan-tahini shake, an orange-pineapple-coconut smoothie, a shot of wheatgrass or an acai bowl. Take your order to go or find a shaded spot on Ben-Gurion Boulevard to sit, people-watch and enjoy your vitamin-packed pick-me-up.
BTW: High probability there will be a queue when you visit the flagship kiosk; wait it out — it is worth it even though Tamara has other branches around the city.
171 Dizengoff St., Tel Aviv, Israel
Abu Hassan (Ali Karavan)
There is a very good reason locals and visitors alike jostle for a plate of hummus at Abu Hassan (Ali Karavan). The spot, not far from Jaffa Port, is loud and hectic, with waiters shouting orders to the kitchen. Order the regular hummus dish of this creamy chickpea spread or try the “triple” — a plate of hummus, ful (fava beans) and masabacha, a variation of hummus in which the chickpeas remain whole with a cumin-parsley-garlic-lemon trimming. You can use a fork if you’d like, but locals use pita bread and raw onions to scoop up the hummus.
BTW: It is always busy and usually has a line outside. Come for an early lunch, because the restaurant closes as soon as the morning’s fresh pot of hummus runs out.
1 Ha-Dolfin St., Tel Aviv, Israel
Brasserie M&R
This long-standing Parisian-style brasserie, located opposite Rabin Square and City Hall, draws a loyal clientele. Sitting options include an Art Deco-inspired interior or sidewalk seating amid buzzing street life. The business lunch deal is among the city’s best and includes an appetizer, drink and French bread for the price of a main dish. The daily specials — including bouillabaisse, pot-au-feu or beef bourguignon — are singled out for good reason. The hamburger has been voted by locals as among the city’s finest, too. Wine is an option, but a cocktail is a better choice.
BTW: The brasserie’s breakfasts and late-night offerings are as popular as its lunch deals, so reservations are recommended.
70 Ibn Gabirol St., Tel Aviv, 6495206, Israel
Onza
This is the place to come for modern interpretations of traditional Turkish cuisine. The meze-style starters include warm eggplant with yogurt and pistachio, or fennel salad with blueberries and a citrus vinaigrette. Make sure to order at least one pide (Turkish flatbread) baked to perfection in the taboun (wood-fired) oven. Onza, a sister restaurant to fine-dining establishments Kitchen Market and Mashya, is a far more laid-back bar-restaurant with soft contemporary music as a soundtrack. Sit at the bar or alfresco in an ancient alleyway of the Jaffa Flea Market. The mandate here is to celebrate life with good alcohol and great food.
BTW: On Sundays, Onza hosts a special Turkish night with its own menu and Turkish music.
3 Rabbi Hannina St., Jaffa Flea Market, Tel Aviv, Israel
Manta Ray
This beautifully designed beachfront restaurant is the best spot to watch the sunset. It’s a favorite among locals and tourists, who come here for the selection of mezze (small salad dishes), which change according to the day’s catch, and seasonal produce. The focus is on seafood, as would be expected, but vegetarians will find plenty of meticulously prepared possibilities as well. The Sharing Seafood cast-iron pot dish requires at least three hungry diners. Pitcher-cocktail choices include some surprising combinations.
BTW: Manta Ray’s website offers recipes of its dishes if you try something you want to make at home.
703 Yehezkel Kaufman St., Beit Ha’etzel parking lot, Tel Aviv, Israel
Imperial Craft Cocktail Bar
This hideaway on the ground floor of the nondescript Imperial Hotel near the beach serves up the city’s most creative cocktails alongside Asian-colonial fare. There’s a lot of meat and seafood on the menu, but vegetarians will not go hungry. The craft cocktails, often served with striking garnishes, change according to season and fall into categories including malty, exotic, fresh and smoked. The bar is small with few seats, resembling a long-gone European officers’ social club in Asia. Depending on the time of your visit, the soundtrack will vary from classic oldies to swing jazz.
BTW: Guests must be at least 25 to visit this bar.
66 HaYarkon St., Tel Aviv, Israel
Itzik and Ruthie’s
From the outside, this legendary sandwich joint looks incongruous on trendy Sheinkin Street. But this little storefront has been serving inexpensive sandwiches from this location for over 60 years. The menu changes according to the whim of the sandwich-makers — the original owners’ son and daughter-in-law — who continue to stuff fresh rolls with the family’s secret recipes and a lot of love. Blue-collar workers, swank neighbors and after-hours party stragglers shuffle for space in line to put in their orders. The rotating menu includes tuna salad, shakshuka, herring, zucchini salad, spicy carrot salad and fresh sauerkraut with hot dog.
BTW: This sandwich shop is theoretically open from 4 to 11:30 a.m. but will close early when the food runs out.
53 Sheinkin St., Tel Aviv, Israel
LOCALS THINK YOU SHOULD KNOW
- Much of Israel shuts down for the Sabbath (Friday afternoon to Saturday night) and Jewish holidays. Tel Aviv hums through these days, but slowly.
- Tel Aviv has a party reputation, but it is also family-friendly. Locals take their kids everywhere. Make time for our playgrounds, with climbing walls, slides, zip lines and balance rings.
- This is one of the friendliest places for dogs, with one pooch to every 17 residents. Restaurants put out water bowls and increasingly list dog treats on the menus.
Do
White City
The White City district refers to a collection of 4,000 registered historical buildings, the world’s largest collection, built in the Bauhaus/International Style of architecture. Because the buildings are spread out in different central neighborhoods, you’ll need to walk, bike or scoot around to see them. Emblematic of Tel Aviv’s urban landscape, the light-colored buildings — with ribbon windows, flat roofs and geometric shapes — are functional structures in a living city, housing theaters, cafes, bars, hotels, residences and start-ups. Many have undergone preservation and are photo-worthy, but others are dirty and deteriorating. In 2003, UNESCO declared the White City area as a unique world-heritage site. You don’t have to be an architect to appreciate their beauty.
BTW: Take a guided tour of the White City district to hear the stories behind the buildings. The Bauhaus Center runs a tour every Friday morning, and the White City Center (address mapped below) runs group tours on demand.
29 Idelson St., Tel Aviv, Israel
Yarkon Park (Ganei Yehoshua)
The green lung of Tel Aviv, this park is to Tel Aviv what Central Park is to New York City. About 16 million visitors are drawn annually to its extensive lawns, sports facilities, water park, concert venues, dog parks, artificial lakes, ornithological center, biking and walking paths, gardens and playgrounds. Exercise buffs swarm in the early mornings and early evenings. Families set up picnics or barbecues en masse on Saturdays and holidays. Acts like Paul McCartney, the Rolling Stones, Peter Gabriel and Madonna have all performed in the outdoor concert venue. The Yarkon River cuts through the park, and even though it’s not appropriate to swim there, the river is used for boating activities. The park stretches from the northeast high-tech area of Ramat Hahayal to the Mediterranean Sea.
BTW: Renting a bike or scooter on the street will help you see more of the park. Just make sure to stay on the bike paths, because you will be fined for riding on the pedestrian pathways.
Go to the beach
Although Tel Aviv has only recently been lauded as an international beach destination, for locals, beach life is a major part of the culture. With 300 sunny days a year, Tel Aviv residents spend a lot of time outdoors — and, specifically, at the seashore. People walk, run, cycle or use scooters on the long promenade along the city’s western edge. You’ll always find locals at the beachside free outdoor mini gyms as well. There are 13 beaches to choose from in the city, each with its own character. Centrally located Hilton is the LGBT community’s stretch of sand; Gordon is the ultimate urban one; and Metzitzim is the most laid-back. If you’d prefer to hang with the locals away from the main hotel strip, you’ll find them on North and South Hatzuk (Cliff) beaches as well as at Tel Baruch Beach (mapped below), all three in the northern part of the city with perfect sunset viewing spots and sports facilities.
BTW: The beaches are lined with restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlors and clubs, and although they have the prime location for people- or sunset-watching, be forewarned these establishments hike the prices exactly for this reason.
Tel Baruch Beach, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel)
The busiest and biggest market in Tel Aviv that tourists come to for the exciting sensory experiences and locals come to for their shopping. The centrally located, open-air market is always busy, and you will have your ankles nipped by at least one local trying to navigate the crowds with a shopping trolley. Vendors stand over stalls with colorful fresh produce, gourmet cheeses, spices, flowers, meat and fish, sweets, toys and discounted clothing — and they often sing praises of their goods to woo shoppers. Come hungry: This market is also home to cool cafes, chef-owned food stalls, Middle Eastern fast food, juice stands and bakeries.
BTW: Take a guided tour with Delicious Israel around the market and backstreets of the adjoining Yemenite Quarter neighborhood to better understand the foods and foodstuffs on sale as well as which stalls to shop and eat at.
HaCarmel Street, Tel Aviv, Israel
Habima Square
Tel Aviv is known for its public squares and their iconic artwork. Locals and tourists come to Habima Square to play or read in the sunken garden, attend an outdoor event, for a performance, sit at a cafe or to watch the crowds. This is a culture plaza — flanked by the country’s national theater and a contemporary art museum, and home of the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, all built in the International Style of architecture. Since Habima Square is right in the center of the city, it tends to teem with people at all hours. The “Three Circles” sculpture by artist Menashe Kadishman, which logic says should fall, has become a recognized symbol of the city.
BTW: Each public square holds a piece of the city’s history. Closest to Habima Square is Dizengoff Square, with the famous “Fire and Water Fountain” sculpture by artist Yaacov Agam.
2 Tarsat Ave., Tel Aviv, Israel
Ilana Goor Museum
This city brims with first-rate museums displaying Israeli art, contemporary masterpieces, archaeological artifacts and antiquities dating back thousands of years. But there’s no place quite like the Ilana Goor Museum. Housed in an 18th-century building in the Old City of Jaffa, the museum itself is an architectural masterpiece with a wild history that includes being an inn for Jerusalem-bound pilgrims. Goor, herself an artist, has culled together an eclectic and diverse treasure trove of over 500 works of art by acclaimed contemporary designers, like Frank Gehry and Gerrit Thomas Rietveld; celebrated Israeli artists such as Yigal Tumarkin and Yaacov Agam; and numerous foreign pieces. The view of the Mediterranean Sea from the rooftop is unparalleled.
BTW: Use a visit to this museum as the starting point for a walking tour of Jaffa’s old winding alleyways, ancient stone buildings and open courtyards. Take time to pop into art galleries, small shops, lively cafes, fashion boutiques and designer workshops like Ben Zion David’s stunning handmade Yemenite silver jewelry, on the same street as the museum.
4 Mazal Dagim St., Old Jaffa, Tel Aviv 68036 Israel
Viva Sarah Press
Viva moved to Israel in 1998 and to Tel Aviv in 2003. Her three kids have no idea how nice it is to grow up with 300 days of sunny weather and be able to do all sorts of outdoor activities year-round — quite the opposite from her Canadian childhood.
Corinna Kern
Corinna is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Israel.