A local’s guide to Florence
Everything you need to know about Florence can be explained by visiting its most famous resident: Michelangelo’s David. Most folks jostle for space — and selfies — in front of the 17-foot-tall marble man. But walk around back, and you won’t have quite so much company.
Seeking out something different is a smart strategy in this town of icons. This is the where the Medici lived large, leaving behind sprawling palaces and artistic masterpieces. The massive cathedral dome is an architectural marvel that’s made jaws drop for nearly 600 years.
The real highlights of this Renaissance city, however, are much smaller, starting with the doll-size cups of espresso that fuel daily Florentine life. Search the narrow streets for hints of history in ornate door knockers and quirky “wine windows” (once used to hawk bottles to passersby). Hunt for your favorite piccola piazza. And when a tour group marches your way, try heading in the opposite direction.
Meet your local
Vicky moved to Florence with her family in 2015. The hot, humid summers remind her of home in Washington, D.C. — only without the air conditioning. The rest of the year, she’s grateful for the Tuscan sun.
vickyhallett vicky_hallettWant to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
Just off of Piazza Savonarola. It’s known for a statue of the fiery monk who clashed with authority, persuaded folks to burn their stuff in the bonfire of the vanities and eventually went down in flames himself.
Best way to get around the city:
The growing tram network is making some trips easier — like the airport to downtown — but walking remains the most reliable form of transportation, especially through the oldest, tightest streets.
Don’t leave without having:
An appreciation for the city’s incredible collection of art that’s not in museums. One must-see: the 14th-century frescoes located inside Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a cosmetics and fragrance store.
But the local favorite is really:
Soccer. Wear purple and learn the first few bars of the Fiorentina song, and you’ll make friends everywhere — especially at the Museo del Calcio, an entire museum dedicated to the Italian national soccer team.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
The Arno River. Those tourists snapping pics of the Ponte Vecchio aren’t wrong, they’re just crammed into a tight spot. See if you can befriend a member of the rowing club (Società Canottieri Firenze) to get access to the grassy bank just beneath the bridge.
stay
IN THE ACTION
Santo Spirito
The piazza at the heart of the Oltrarno neighborhood wakes up to venders selling copper pots, organic honey and vintage frocks. By sunset, an aperitivo crowd moves in, filling the restaurants and lounging with drinks around the piazza’s octagonal central fountain. Nearby, you’ll find a mix of boisterous traditional eateries and fashionable fusion cuisine, plus several hotels boasting Florence’s favorite amenity: a room with a view. Find this neighborhood.
LOW-KEY
Le Cure
A straight shot north of the city center takes you through a tunnel — showcasing the wildest graffiti in town — to the other side of the railroad tracks. Sandwiched between two great public parks, the area is a greener alternative to downtown for locals and features a handful of B&Bs. Friendly bakeries and boutiques abound in the blocks that radiate from Piazza delle Cure (undergoing a major makeover). Find this neighborhood.
eat
Breakfast
Caffè Lietta
Your cappuccino would like to meet the pirulo, a gooey tartlet filled with rice or ricotta and spiked with chocolate, pistachios or various other yummy things that’s the specialty of this hygge spot with historic cred. (Several staff members came from the now-closed Caffè Giacosa, the birthplace of the Negroni.) All the goodies displayed in its glass pastry counter, including more typical Italian morning fare like cream-filled sfoglie, are baked in the upstairs kitchen, which customers can peek into if they crane their necks.
BTW: Italians often prefer to eat breakfast standing, but you can sit here, too. And unlike many places in town, there’s no extra table charge.
Piazza della Libertà, 6/7/8 Rosso, 50129 Firenze FI, Italy
Breakfast
Santarosa Bistrot
No offense to its welcoming mid-century modern interior, but no one comes to Santarosa Bistrot hoping to sit inside. The lure of its location, just off the river, is the garden setting — an outdoor living room full of slouchy couches amid colorful blooms and towering trees. Decidedly un-Italian options dominate the breakfast menu (available until noon), including guacamole toast, eggs Benedict and pancakes with maple syrup, which you can wash down with a flat white, cold brew or Earl Gray Supreme.
BTW: Return at night for a different crowd (more people with cocktails than computers) and a seafood-heavy menu.
Santarosa Bistrot, Lungarno di Santa Rosa, 50142 Firenze FI, Italy
Lunch
Acquacotta
Red-and-white checkered tablecloths and mouth-watering Tuscan cuisine make this tucked-away trattoria the Florentine restaurant of dreams. And it’s even better because of always-smiling service and a ridiculously amazing lunch deal: two courses of your choice, served with wine, water and bread — all for under $15. Generous portions of tortiglioni tossed in walnuts and gorgonzola, penne paired with lamb ragù, spicy roast chicken and potatoes — or whatever seasonal dishes emerge from the open kitchen — will leave you stuffed (and ready to return).
BTW: The price also includes “coperto.” Many restaurants tack on this per-person fee (usually around 2 euros), which is essentially a service charge. If it’s on the bill, no need to add a tip.
Acquacotta, Via dei Pilastri, 51, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy
Lunch
Panificio Brunori
A panino makes for ideal grub on the go, especially if you’re grabbing one from this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it bakery. Pick your bread, meat, cheese, veggies and condiments — from a huge board listing the choices — and they’ll build your creation. If the wait is too long, here’s a backup plan: Select a bunch of schiacciatine, which look like palm-size pizzas. They’re oily, salty, completely delicious and come loaded with assorted toppings, including artichokes, potatoes and eggplant.
BTW: Like at many family-run shops in Florence, afternoon business hours can be a bit unpredictable. It’s best to arrive at Panificio Brunori before 3 p.m.
Panificio Brunori, Borgo Pinti, 16, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy
Dinner
Brac
When you need a break from Florentine steak, make a reservation at this chic restaurant-art-bookstore combo. You’ll pass under a ceiling dripping with pieces of fabric on your way into the cozy dining room, lined with both volumes and vino. The all-vegetarian menu — with plentiful vegan choices — is divided into three sections: salads, rice/pasta and dishes made with pane carasau (that’s a kind of crispy flatbread from Sardinia). Can’t decide between the pear carpaccio, potato tortelloni in arugula pesto, or pane carasau with buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes? Choose one from each section for a “piatto unico” sampler.
BTW: Take an after-dinner stroll past the nearby Galileo Museum, where the sundial out front transforms each night into a light display with shining zodiac symbols.
Brac, Via dei Vagellai, 18/R, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
Dinner
Procacci
This jewelry box of a wine bar obviously stocks plenty of reds, whites and bubbles — rows of bottles are dramatically lit along three walls. But the reason folks eagerly perch on the stools here is the truffles. Procacci has been a purveyor of luxury fungi since 1885, and it offers surprisingly affordable tastes in the form of its $3 legendary truffle finger sandwiches — fluffy buns slathered with black paste. Opt for a snack, or make it a meal by ordering a variety of sandwiches (other options include brie with pear-ginger jam and smoked salmon with cream cheese and chives), plus a cheese plate.
BTW: Another way to feel fancy without going broke on Florence’s most expensive shopping street is to visit the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.
Procacci, Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64R, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy
Late-night
Pint of View
Jonesing for an Italian doppel bock? This craft beer-obsessed gastropub probably has it on one of its dozen taps, along with a selection of other Italian and European brews. A Korean food menu offers some unusual accompaniments, including a codfish burger with apricot-wasabi tartar sauce and homemade mandu dumplings stuffed with Florentine lampredotto (the fourth stomach of a cow). Head into the sleek space during happy hour, every day between 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m., for discounted prices on beer, cocktails and small plates.
BTW: There’s no sign to prove it, but you’re right next door to Rasputin. The entrance to the “secret” cocktail bar is disguised to look like a chapel.
Pint of View, Borgo Tegolaio, 17, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
Late-night
Gelateria de’ Medici
Of all the innovations to emerge from Renaissance-era Florence, gelato is definitely the tastiest. The dessert was originally invented for Medici family banquets, and this shop — which has another location in the Statuto neighborhood — pays homage to that luxe legacy with crystal chandeliers, gold furnishings and an epic display of nearly 50 flavors. But it’s still less than $3 for an overflowing cone, perhaps with its signature flavor, Crema de’ Medici. Beeline to the back for a more extravagant option: hollowed out pieces of fruit, including pomegranates and pineapples, filled with sorbet.
BTW: The same piazza is home to Kitsch, known for its vast (albeit salty) aperitivo buffet. For more nightlife options, head down Borgo la Croce.
Gelateria de’ Medici, Piazza Cesare Beccaria, 7R, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy
- Bread does not contain salt. If you don’t like it, instead order “schiacciata,” which is a kind of flatbread made with a lot of salt.
- Florence loves flowers. Sure, downtown can seem devoid of plants (because they’re hiding away behind palazzo walls), but there are incredible public green spaces to explore.
- There might not always be changing tables or high chairs, but kids are welcome wherever, whenever. Just be ready for a request from restaurant staff: “Can I hold your baby?”
do
Orsanmichele Church
Although the interior is closed until late December 2019 for upgrades, it’s still worth swinging by the only church in Florence (or anywhere?) that was once a granary. It’s an oasis of calm just steps from Zara, Swarovski and the other stores crowded into the city’s craziest shopping strip. Instead of showy windows filled with clothing and jewelry, you’ll find a different kind of display here: statues created by some of the greatest artists of the Renaissance. The original sculptures — commissioned by the city’s guilds in the 15th and 16th centuries — have been replaced by copies. Still, it’s cool to even have a twin of Donatello’s “Saint George” posing with his shield just above your head.
BTW: During the closing, you can still peek into the church by visiting the ticket office accessible from the door on Via dei Calzaiuli.
Orsanmichele Church, Via dell’Arte della Lana, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy
Oblate Library
No need to worry about getting shushed. At least, not on the rooftop terrace of this former convent that’s been converted into the city’s main public library. The social space — which also features a cafe — is completely covered, which comes in handy when it rains. And it’s an awesome vantage point for photos of the Duomo dome without having to fight a wave of tourists. (More likely, you’ll just be chilling with university students working on their laptops.) Night owls are in luck: Tuesday through Saturday, it’s open until nearly midnight.
BTW: The bathroom in the children’s area has mini toilets and sinks, making it a favorite pit stop for families with young kids.
Oblate Library, Via dell’ Oriuolo, 24, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
Teatro della Pergola
Back in the 1600s, a bunch of the richest families in Florence decided to build a clubhouse for private opera performances. About 200 years later, they finally decided to start selling tickets to the public. That’s when the neoclassical front entrance and foyer were added — grand spaces filled with marble columns that welcome today’s audiences to a program of classical concerts, Italian-language plays and contemporary dance. Sitting in the acoustically perfect original hall is a treat, especially if you can snag a seat in the central box that once hosted Napoleon and Mussolini.
BTW: The theater offers backstage tours in English and Italian on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 10 a.m. and noon.
Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola, 12/32, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy
English Cemetery
A burial ground smack in the middle of a busy traffic circle doesn’t sound so peaceful. But inside the gates, strategically placed trees and sloped paths conjure up a truly tranquil resting place. Rows of gravestones tell the story of a bygone era — back when Florence was on the “Grand Tour” of Europe for fancy Brits, and so many of them moved here that the surrounding countryside was dubbed “Chiantishire.” Keep your eyes peeled for big names chiseled into stone, including poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning and the last descendants of William Shakespeare.
BTW: The best time of year to visit is April or May, when beautiful purple irises pop up all around the oval-shaped cemetery.
English Cemetery, Piazzale Donatello, 38, 50132 Firenze FI, Italy
Clet’s Studio
Street signs are the medium of choice for Florence’s most acclaimed street artist, Clet Abraham, who cleverly transforms symbols. (Yes, that “Do Not Enter” sign does appear to be a spilled glass of wine.) The merch at his shop — including T-shirts, playing cards and stickers galore — lets folks take their favorite designs home. Fellow street artist Carla Bruttini has a similar set up at Dhai - Studio Atelier, just down Via San Niccolò. Not only does she feature her own work, which celebrates strong women, but she also makes room for other artists, including Blub, who inserts diving masks into classic paintings.
BTW: Between the two studios, you’ll find Busatti, which sells bath, kitchen and dining textiles all woven in Tuscany.
Clet’s Studio, 50125, Via dell’Olmo, 8, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
Piazza del Carmine
Start on the north side of this newly renovated piazza, where trees shade a series of inviting benches. In a nod to the area’s artisan traditions, four have backrests crafted to resemble the facades of the city’s most recognizable churches. Thirsty? Sip from a sculpture — the water fountain looks like nails hammered into the pavement. Then travel back hundreds of years in a few steps by heading into the Brancacci Chapel, home to Masaccio’s perspective pioneering frescoes. Even if you don’t pony up for a ticket, you’re welcome to wander the adjoining cloister, where you can watch an informative film and admire a “Last Supper” painting.
BTW: To see an artisan workshop in action, check out the nearby Dimitri Villoresi bags.
Piazza del Carmine, 50124 Firenze FI, Italy
Vicky Hallett
Vicky moved to Florence with her family in 2015. The hot, humid summers remind her of home in Washington, D.C. — only without the air conditioning. The rest of the year, she’s grateful for the Tuscan sun.
@vickyhallett @vicky_hallettSimone Donati
Simone is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Florence and Bari.
@Donati
