1

Desktop notifications are on   | Turn off

Get breaking news alerts from The Washington Post

Turn on desktop notifications?

Yes Not now
  • Sections
  • Home
The Washington Post logo
Democracy Dies in Darkness
  • Try one month for $1
  • Username
  • Sign In
    • My Post
    • My Reading List
    • Account Settings
    • Newsletters & alerts
    • Gift subscriptions
    • Contact us
    • Help desk
    • My Post
    • My Reading List
    • Account Settings
    • Newsletters & alerts
    • Gift subscriptions
    • Contact us
    • Help desk
    The Washington Post

    Detours with locals.
    Travel tips you can trust.

    • News
    • Tips
    • Newsletter

    Cities

    News

    Tips

    Newsletter

    One Square Mile

    Roscioli Caffè.
    One Square Mile

    A guide to local favorites in Regola
    Rome

    By Erica Firpo
    Photos by Ginevra Sammartino
    Add to list
    On my list

    NeighborhoodsBack to top

    RegolaRome

    View on
    Google Maps
    • Dario Alfonsi
    • Roscioli Caffe
    • Hostaria Farnese
    • Jerry Thomas speakeasy
    • Contemporary Cluster
    View on Google Maps
    Share
    Share on Facebook
    Share on Twitter
    Share via Email

    A neighborhood within the historic center, Regola has more than 2,000 years on it and lets you know it. Ancient inscriptions and columns decorate building fronts, while its centerpiece is the Campo de’ Fiori, a large square that transforms into a morning market. The beauty of Regola is its palazzos and small piazze, and its true personality comes from the artisans on its side streets, from bakers and leather crafters to butchers and plumbers.

    Meet your local

    Erica has lived in Rome since 2004, but she has been visiting the Eternal City since she was a child, thanks to her Roman mother and grandparents. Philadelphia is her hometown, Los Angeles is where she started her career and Rome is the end-all, be-all. She loves piazza life but misses backyard barbecues.

    ericafirpo

    Want to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com


    Where I live:
    I live on the edge of the Ghetto (also called the Jewish ghetto), a micro-neighborhood in the center of the centro storico along the east side of the river. It’s one of the areas that gets a lot of traffic — local businesses and tourists — but somehow, the side streets are under the radar.

    Best way to get around the city:
    The best way to get anywhere in the historic center is by foot or bicycle, but it really helps to have a scooter — you can go anywhere fast. In a pinch and for longer distances, public transportation can take you to most places. Just have patience.

    Don’t leave without having:
    A maritozzo (pastry), pasta cacio e pepe or carbonara, pizza romana and a sip of fresh water from any of the nasoni (public drinking fountains).

    But the local favorite is really:
    Puntarelle, porchetta and pizza bianca (separately or combined in a sandwich).

    If I moved, I’d most miss:
    Pizza bianca, proper carbonara, open-air markets and walking to everything. But I would never move.

    Regola

    Dario Alfonsi

    A leather artisan who makes chairs and other items by hand. Dario re-creates the 19th-century-designed Tripolina folding chair. His boutique is also his workshop, so you can watch him in action.


    Dario Alfonsi, Via dei Chiavari 40, Rome

    • 011-39-06-6819-2188
    • Location

    Roscioli Caffe

    A contemporary neighborhood coffee bar and pastry shop from the Roscioli family (four generations of bakers). Spectacularly crafted coffee drinks and delicious pastries are made on site.


    Roscioli Caffe, Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16, Rome

    Website

    • 011-39-06-8916-5330
    • Location
    • Website
    • Instagram
    • Twitter

    Hostaria Farnese

    This time-capsule hostaria (a simple restaurant) still has its original mid-century decor, along with excellent Roman dishes such as carciofi alla romana (braised artichokes) and saltimbocca alla romana (veal medallions with prosciutto and sage).


    Hostaria Farnese, Via dei Baullari 109, Rome

    • 011-39-06-6880-1595
    • Location
    (Courtesy of Jerry Thomas Project)

    Jerry Thomas speakeasy

    No longer a secret, the 1920s-style Jerry Thomas is a big draw for those who love impeccably crafted cocktails. The tiny bar is ideal if you don’t want to be seen, especially because counter space is limited to reservations (call in the late afternoon).


    Jerry Thomas speakeasy, Vicolo Cellini 30, Rome

    Website

    • 011-39-370-114-6287
    • Location
    • Website
    • Instagram

    Contemporary Cluster

    A hybrid art-gallery-boutique-event space in a decadent 17th-century palace, this is a jumble of permanent and pop-up shops, monthly exhibitions and weekly performances.


    Contemporary Cluster, Via dei Barbieri 7, Rome

    Website

    • 011-39-06-6830-8388
    • Location
    • Website
    • Instagram
    There’s more to see
    One Square Mile
    City Guide

    Flaminio

    Testaccio

    Rome

    Erica Firpo

    Erica has lived in Rome since 2004, but she has been visiting the Eternal City since she was a child, thanks to her Roman mother and grandparents. Philadelphia is her hometown, Los Angeles is where she started her career and Rome is the end-all, be-all. She loves piazza life but misses backyard barbecues.

    @ericafirpo

    Ginevra Sammartino

    Ginevra is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Rome.

    City Guides

    Dubrovnik

    Croatia

    Montreal

    Canada

    Bogota

    Colombia

    Kuala Lumpur

    Malaysia

    Toronto

    Canada

    Denver

    United States

    • Contact the Newsroom
    • Contact Customer Care
    • Request a Correction
    • Send a News Tip
    • Download The Washington Post App
    • Policies & Standards
    • Terms of Service
    • Privacy Policy
    • Print Products Terms of Sale
    • Digital Products Terms of Sale
    • CA Notice of Collection
    • Do Not Sell My Personal Information
    • Submissions & Discussion Policy
    • RSS Terms of Service
    • Ad Choices
    About Us
    • Public Relations
    • Careers
    • Diversity & Inclusion
    • Newspaper in Education
    • Today's Paper
    • WP BrandStudio
    • Events
    • Policies & Standards
    Get The Post
    • Home Delivery
    • Digital Subscription
    • Gift Subscriptions
    • Mobile & Apps
    • Newsletters & Alerts
    • Washington Post Live
    • Reprints & Permissions
    • Post Store
    • Photo Store
    • e-Replica
    Help
    • Contact the Newsroom
    • Contact Customer Care
    • Reader Representative
    • Advertise
    • Licensing & Syndication
    • Request a Correction
    • Send a News Tip
    Terms of Use
    • Digital Products Terms of Sale
    • Print Products Terms of Sale
    • Terms of Service
    • Privacy Policy
    • CA Notice of Collection
    • Do Not Sell My Personal Information
    • Submissions & Discussion Policy
    • Request a Correction
    • RSS Terms of Service
    • Ad Choices
    washingtonpost.com © 1996-2021 The Washington Post