A guide to local favorites in Regola Rome
A neighborhood within the historic center, Regola has more than 2,000 years on it and lets you know it. Ancient inscriptions and columns decorate building fronts, while its centerpiece is the Campo de’ Fiori, a large square that transforms into a morning market. The beauty of Regola is its palazzos and small piazze, and its true personality comes from the artisans on its side streets, from bakers and leather crafters to butchers and plumbers.
Meet your local
Erica has lived in Rome since 2004, but she has been visiting the Eternal City since she was a child, thanks to her Roman mother and grandparents. Philadelphia is her hometown, Los Angeles is where she started her career and Rome is the end-all, be-all. She loves piazza life but misses backyard barbecues.
ericafirpoWant to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
I live on the edge of the Ghetto (also called the Jewish ghetto), a micro-neighborhood in the center of the centro storico along the east side of the river. It’s one of the areas that gets a lot of traffic — local businesses and tourists — but somehow, the side streets are under the radar.
Best way to get around the city:
The best way to get anywhere in the historic center is by foot or bicycle, but it really helps to have a scooter — you can go anywhere fast. In a pinch and for longer distances, public transportation can take you to most places. Just have patience.
Don’t leave without having:
A maritozzo (pastry), pasta cacio e pepe or carbonara, pizza romana and a sip of fresh water from any of the nasoni (public drinking fountains).
But the local favorite is really:
Puntarelle, porchetta and pizza bianca (separately or combined in a sandwich).
If I moved, I’d most miss:
Pizza bianca, proper carbonara, open-air markets and walking to everything. But I would never move.
Regola
Dario Alfonsi
A leather artisan who makes chairs and other items by hand. Dario re-creates the 19th-century-designed Tripolina folding chair. His boutique is also his workshop, so you can watch him in action.
Dario Alfonsi, Via dei Chiavari 40, Rome
Roscioli Caffe
A contemporary neighborhood coffee bar and pastry shop from the Roscioli family (four generations of bakers). Spectacularly crafted coffee drinks and delicious pastries are made on site.
Roscioli Caffe, Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16, Rome
Hostaria Farnese
This time-capsule hostaria (a simple restaurant) still has its original mid-century decor, along with excellent Roman dishes such as carciofi alla romana (braised artichokes) and saltimbocca alla romana (veal medallions with prosciutto and sage).
Hostaria Farnese, Via dei Baullari 109, Rome
Jerry Thomas speakeasy
No longer a secret, the 1920s-style Jerry Thomas is a big draw for those who love impeccably crafted cocktails. The tiny bar is ideal if you don’t want to be seen, especially because counter space is limited to reservations (call in the late afternoon).
Jerry Thomas speakeasy, Vicolo Cellini 30, Rome
Contemporary Cluster
A hybrid art-gallery-boutique-event space in a decadent 17th-century palace, this is a jumble of permanent and pop-up shops, monthly exhibitions and weekly performances.
Contemporary Cluster, Via dei Barbieri 7, Rome
Erica Firpo
Erica has lived in Rome since 2004, but she has been visiting the Eternal City since she was a child, thanks to her Roman mother and grandparents. Philadelphia is her hometown, Los Angeles is where she started her career and Rome is the end-all, be-all. She loves piazza life but misses backyard barbecues.
@ericafirpoGinevra Sammartino
Ginevra is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Rome.
