A guide to local favorites in Sant’Ambrogio Florence
Your reusable shopping bags can’t resist a trip to the Sant’Ambrogio and its market — a more compact, navigable alternative to the two-story Central Market across town. After gathering fresh ingredients for dinner, you’ll want to linger inside the market’s tiny trattoria that’s about the width of a train car. Everything’s more intimate in this neighborhood just to the east of the center, where locals start to outnumber tourists. Wander around, and you’re guaranteed to wind up in a place that feels like a discovery.
Meet your local
Vicky moved to Florence with her family in 2015. The hot, humid summers remind her of home in Washington, D.C. — only without the air conditioning. The rest of the year, she’s grateful for the Tuscan sun.
vickyhallett vicky_hallettWant to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
Just off of Piazza Savonarola. It’s known for a statue of the fiery monk who clashed with authority, persuaded folks to burn their stuff in the bonfire of the vanities and eventually went down in flames himself.
Best way to get around the city:
The growing tram network is making some trips easier — like the airport to downtown — but walking remains the most reliable form of transportation, especially through the oldest, tightest streets.
Don’t leave without having:
An appreciation for the city’s incredible collection of art that’s not in museums. One must-see: the 14th-century frescoes located inside Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a cosmetics and fragrance store.
But the local favorite is really:
Soccer. Wear purple and learn the first few bars of the Fiorentina song, and you’ll make friends everywhere — especially at the Museo del Calcio, an entire museum dedicated to the Italian national soccer team.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
The Arno River. Those tourists snapping pics of the Ponte Vecchio aren’t wrong, they’re just crammed into a tight spot. See if you can befriend a member of the rowing club (Società Canottieri Firenze) to get access to the grassy bank just beneath the bridge.
Sant’Ambrogio
Sant’Ambrogio Market
Those tomatoes look tempting, but don’t touch them! Point and vendors will bag your haul at the outdoor produce stalls beside the market. Inside is a wonderland where prosciutto hangs from the ceiling, baskets brim with handmade ravioli and you can choose between wheels of pecorino or parmesan. Just make sure you get there before it shuts down at 2 p.m.
Sant’Ambrogio Market, Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy
C. BIO
The newest project from restaurateur Fabio Picchi, who runs a collection of beloved eateries in the area, is this carefully curated shop and deli where you can pick up boots, beets or baked goods — all sustainably sourced. Make sure to visit the upstairs terrace, where tables mingle with a jungle of plants, including fig trees and bonsai.
C. BIO Via della Mattonaia, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy
The Great Synagogue of Florence
This grand Orthodox temple was built in the late 1800s, when Florence’s Jewish community was at its peak. Before, they’d spent 300 years living in a ghetto (in what’s now Piazza della Repubblica, home to a carousel and an Apple store). After, came the Nazis. Visitors can learn about that history in the upstairs museum. In the summer, check out the schedule of garden concerts accompanied by kosher cuisine.
The Great Synagogue of Florence
Piazza dei Ciompi
Named for the wool workers who led a riot here back in 1378, this piazza was home to the city’s antiques market until a recent renovation. Now, its soaring loggia decorated with fish sculptures (and the ubiquitous Medici coat of arms) overlooks a green park that hosts a flower market every Friday, as well as other special events.
Piazza dei Ciompi, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
Giardino di Borgo Allegri
Of course there’s an adorable playground along Borgo Allegri, a street name that translates as “cheerful village.” Kids can run around the grassy lawn, play with the well-maintained equipment or kick a ball on a miniature soccer pitch.
Giardino di Borgo Allegri, Borgo Allegri, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy
Le Murate
Once you enter this former prison complex, you may never leave. The contemporary layout — designed by architect Renzo Piano — features a gallery and performance spaces, plus a spacious courtyard “ristobar” that’s always serving something other than just food. Fliers posted on the exposed brick walls will let you know about upcoming book talks, DJ sets and concerts.
Le Murate Progetti Arte Contemporanea, Via dell’Agnolo, Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy
Vicky Hallett
Vicky moved to Florence with her family in 2015. The hot, humid summers remind her of home in Washington, D.C. — only without the air conditioning. The rest of the year, she’s grateful for the Tuscan sun.
@vickyhallett @vicky_hallettSimone Donati
Simone is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Florence and Bari.
@Donati
