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Tram Depot is a kiosk restored with the retro taste of historic Roman trams.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE

A guide to local favorites in Testaccio

Tram Depot is a kiosk restored with the retro taste of historic Roman trams.
  • By Erica Firpo
  • Photos by Ginevra Sammartino
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Testaccio
Rome
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Once a bustling Tiber River port that transformed into the city’s slaughterhouse headquarters by the early 1900s, Testaccio has grit as well as bragging rights to being the original home of AS Roma, the city’s beloved football team. AS Roma and the slaughterhouse may be long gone, but the rough-around-the-edges area still retains its community vibe through its busy market, locally owned shops and even late-night discos.

Meet Erica Firpo

Erica has lived in Rome since 2004, but she has been visiting the Eternal City since she was a child, thanks to her Roman mother and grandparents. Philadelphia is her hometown, Los Angeles is where she started her career and Rome is the end-all, be-all. She loves piazza life but misses backyard barbecues.

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Testaccio

Street art
Some of the biggest names in street art, like homegrown artist Alice Pasquini and Belgian artist ROA, have been commissioned to create monumental murals, but the beauty is in exploring the streets for unplanned works as well as sponsored murals.
Via del Porto Fluviale 2, Rome
Piramide di Caio Cestio
In the 1st century B.C., pyramids and anything Egyptian were all the rage, so a very wealthy patrician had a beautiful travertine pyramid built for himself. Today, it’s a landmark, metro stop and archaeological site by reservation only.
Piramide di Caio Cestio, Via Raffaele Persichetti, Rome
Tram Depot
This bright green outdoor bar/bistro/coffee spot made from a decommissioned, yes, tram is an excellent spot for afternoon and evening cocktails.
Tram Depot, Via Marmorata 13, Rome
Marigold
Roman hygge arrives, thanks to pastry chef Sofie Wochner and her partner, Domenico Cortese. A simple, chic bakery and restaurant. Wochner’s confections (like cinnamon twists) are not to be missed.
Marigold, Via Giovanni da Empoli 37, Rome
Mercato di Testaccio
This neighborhood market and community hangout has more than 100 vendors, and not all sell food. Standouts include fresh pasta of the day at Le Mani in Pasta (Box 58), vegan burgers and tacos at Sano (Box 3), mini pizzas at Da Artenio (Box 90) and fried delicacies at Mastro Papone (Box 96).
Mercato di Testaccio, Via Beniamino Franklin and via Aldo Manuzio, Rome
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Erica Firpo
Erica has lived in Rome since 2004, but she has been visiting the Eternal City since she was a child, thanks to her Roman mother and grandparents. Philadelphia is her hometown, Los Angeles is where she started her career and Rome is the end-all, be-all. She loves piazza life but misses backyard barbecues.
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ericafirpo
Ginevra Sammartino
Ginevra is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Rome.

CITY GUIDES