CITY GUIDE
A local’s guide to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
- By Darshini Kandasamy
- Photos by Joshua Paul
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Kuala Lumpur is Malaysia’s capital, with the Petronas Towers — still the world’s tallest twin buildings — at its beating heart. But this city with one eye on the future keeps its other on the past: In the shadows of colossal skyscrapers, traditional Malay villages and coconut trees thrive.
The mix goes beyond time: Kuala Lumpur also showcases the country’s colorful multireligious and multicultural patchwork, bearing Malay, Indian and Chinese influences, among others.
So take in the history and the old, somewhat gritty charm, and indulge in young-at-heart “K.L.”
Meet Darshini Kandasamy
Darsh is a journalist, culinary explorer and artist. A K.L. girl her whole life, she lived in Singapore and Hong Kong for several years before reporting duties brought her home in time for Malaysia's elections in 2018. Now, she writes about Malaysian affairs and spends her spare time revisiting old haunts or exploring new ones in her favorite city.
Want to get in touch?
Email bytheway@washpost.comRead more about Darshini
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Pudu
Locals mainly associate Pudu with its temples, the old Puduraya bus terminal, Kuala Lumpur’s largest wet market, hawker food stalls, electrical goods, mom-and-pop stores and a famous former prison. The neighborhood has succeeded in retaining much of its character, despite the influence of gentrification and its location next to the more famous Chinatown and Bukit Bintang districts, to the northwest. Pudu is well connected by bus and rail lines, and many hostels and boutiques are there. Find this neighborhood.
Bangsar
Bangsar, southwest of the city center, was mainly known as an after-hours clubbing district, but it has morphed into an affluent neighborhood with a diverse wine-and-dine scene. Many restaurants and bars pop up here alongside long-established eateries and a night street market. As a bonus, it’s also a stone’s throw away from vibrant Brickfields (also known as Little India). Try lodging in one of the three Sekeping Retreats located throughout Bangsar. (My staycation fave is Sekeping Tenggiri.) Find this neighborhood.
Eat
Phangkey Restaurant
Although Malaysia has the usual dim-sum staples of har gau (prawn dumplings) and char siew pau (or char siu bao, for barbecue pork buns), its distinctive take is to serve them with garlic chile sauce and thick, black, hoisin-based dipping sauce, alongside Chinese tea or local coffee. The crispy wu kok (yam puff), pai kuat (steamed spareribs) and lo mai gai (glutinous rice with meat) are particularly good here, too. Phangkey is known mainly to residents of the suburbs, allowing you to escape the larger crowds of the more famous shops.
BTW: The main shop, with the large signboard, is where the dim sum is prepared. The food is served in a tented row just opposite, so look out for staff holding large bamboo steamers of fresh dim sum.
65, Jalan Lazat 1, Taman Bukit Indah, 58200 Kuala Lumpur
Pulp
The Malaysian flagship store for Singapore’s PPP Coffee, Pulp has quickly become a favorite breakfast and brunch spot. It’s got everything: an Instagrammable location, big Asian flavors and, most important, great coffee. Pulp takes coffee so seriously, it organizes workshops about it.
BTW: Pulp occupies the space that was once the paper-cutting space of a former printing factory. The factory area has been repurposed into a food-beverage-events space.
29-01 Jalan Riong, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur
Minang Salero
This ground-floor hidden gem, in the former blue-collar, suburban neighborhood of Sentul, is one of the best places to try Malay and Padang-style cuisine. Order the nasi padang and you’ll be armed with a plate of plain rice and let loose upon a selection of rich meat, seafood and vegetable dishes. The almost-black beef rendang is unlike rendang found anywhere else, and it is best paired with chili potato chips, salted egg and a selection of the homemade belacan, and other kinds of chili pastes.
BTW: Cool down with the indulgent avocado smoothie.
Minang Salero, 1088, Jalan Sentul, 51000, Kuala Lumpur
Vishal Food & Catering
Typical of South Indian-style dining, rice at this Little India mess hall is piled onto a banana leaf, along with crispy papadam, a selection of vegetables, and a heap of sambhar (or dhal gravy). Complement it all with curries, fried fish, mutton varuval, rasam (tamarind soup) or cooling tairu (Indian-style yogurt).
BTW: Once you’re finished with your meal, fold the leaf lengthwise by bringing the outer edge towards you. This signifies a satisfactory meal; folding the leaf away from you is a no-no.
22, Jalan Scott, Brickfields, 50470 Kuala Lumpur
K.R. Mani Curry House
Crowds pack this South Indian spot for lunch and dinner, but the best play is to stop at the stall just outside. Grab a cup of spiced badam (almond) milk there: It’s warm, creamy and very, very filling. Just make sure to keep stirring it, or else the tasty chunks of coarsely ground almond will sink to the bottom.
BTW: The milk is only available in the evenings, but don’t go too late. They usually run out fast.
KR Mani Curry House, Jalan Sultan Azlan Shah, Sentul, 51100 Kuala Lumpur
Kuchai Lama food court
This large, popular food court is usually busy, even at 2 a.m., but the seats and cuisine options are plentiful. The non-halal wild boar nasi lemak is a must-try, as is the grilled fish (they’re found at the stalls advertising those foods by name).
BTW: The food court used to be in Kuchai Lama, another neighborhood farther northeast along Old Klang Road. It retained the name (and its following) when it reopened.
Kuchai Lama Food Court, Jalan Klang Lama, Taman Oug Square, 58200 Kuala Lumpur
Coley Cocktail Bar
Coley’s boasts that it will tipple you pink, and we strongly recommend you let it. Amid the less glamorous, corporate part of Bangsar, this sleek bar is visually inviting, with a dusty-rose-colored, yet industrial, feel. Coley’s is defined, above all, by its array of interesting and localized cocktails. Although most will sit happily in your tummy, gin aficionados rate Coley’s particularly highly.
BTW: Try the Gin & Coconut, with fresh coconut pulp.
6-G, Jalan Abdullah off Jalan Bangsar, 59000 Bangsar
LOCALS THINK YOU SHOULD KNOW
- Malaysians eat a lot — and almost constantly. Indulge their hospitality by trying as many native dishes and “kuih muih” (local snacks) as you can.
- Thieves on motorbikes (or who escape quickly otherwise) are an occasional problem in the city center. Protect necklaces, purses and similar items especially when walking on busy roads.
- If you’re planning on visiting places of worship, wear long pants; jeans and khakis are fine. Women should pack a shawl just in case.
Do
Visit Jamek Mosque
If the Petronas Towers signify modern Kuala Lumpur, nothing represents its past quite like the iconic Jamek Mosque. Over a century old, with white arches and a Mughal-inspired structure, it is located at the picturesque meeting point of the Klang and Gombak rivers. The mosque is open to the public daily except Fridays.
BTW: Stick around until evening. The confluence of the rivers in front of the mosque is strikingly illuminated at night, with a light-and-fountain show.
Masjid Jamek Jalan Mahkamah Persekutuan, 50050 Kuala Lumpur
Hike and camp at FRIM
The Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) sits in the Bukit Lagong Forest Reserve in the Kepong municipality, on the periphery of the city center. It provides a much-needed escape from the bustle of city life. You can take it as easy or as vigorously as you want, with multiple trails and gardens for hiking, jogging, walking and cycling. Public camping grounds are available, too. A teal-colored guardhouse marks the entrance.
BTW: FRIM’s once-famous Canopy Walk was closed in 2017 out of concern for safety and the effect on the surrounding trees.
Jalan Frim, Kepong, 52109 Kuala Lumpur and Selangor
See Malaysia’s best street art
Even many Malaysians may not be familiar with Sabah-born Kenji Chai’s name, but most are familiar with his work. The graffiti artist’s colorful creations have graced walls across the city, as well as in other countries. His stunning mural at the side of the Red hotel (mapped below) is the tallest in the country.
BTW: Look out for Kenji’s signature character, the stray dog Chaigo. (The name is a mashup of the artist’s last name and the word “go,” Cantonese for dog.) You can spot the little guy almost everywhere: on the sides of buildings, on roads, under bridges and on highways.
Red by Sirocco. No. 3, Menara M101 Dang Wangi, Jalan Kamunting, 50300 Kuala Lumpur
Tour a traditional Malay house
It’s hard to imagine a village scene in the heart of most modern cities, but there Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman is, hidden in plain sight. It’s one of the oldest surviving traditional Malay houses in the country. Built in the early 1900s, this little wooden house remains in pristine condition. Guided tours cost a minimum donation of RM10 (or less than $3) per person.
BTW: Kampung Baru, a full traditional Malay enclave, is an 11-minute drive away. The government is studying plans on redeveloping it, but there’s no word yet on when that will start. You can download a guide here.
2 Jalan Stonor, 50450, Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Center
Built on the ground of the National Railway warehouse by award-winning landscape architect Ng Sek San, KLPAC’s industrial-style glass building is as much a talking point as the shows it hosts. Many of the local and international productions and programs are fit for the whole family. (For example, in late 2019, Robert Bolt’s classic “A Man for All Seasons” will be staged with local theater heavyweights, returning after a production in English in 1991.)
BTW: Set aside time to take in the tranquil beauty of the adjacent Sentul Park and its koi fish center.
Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre, Sentul Park, Jalan Strachan off Jalan Sultan Azlan Shah, 51100, Kuala Lumpur
Ilham gallery
For a slice of the modern Malaysian art scene, a great place to start is the Ilham gallery, on levels 3 and 5, featuring rotating photo and art exhibitions, along with programs that cater to Malaysians’ whimsy and nostalgia. Smack dab in the center of K.L., the gallery is easy to get to, too. Best of all, admission is free.
BTW: The gift shop, with wares carefully curated and sourced from local craftsmen, is much talked about, so this is a good chance to pick up a keepsake.
Ilham Tower, no. 8, Jalan Binjai, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Darshini Kandasamy
Darsh is a journalist, culinary explorer and artist. A K.L. girl her whole life, she lived in Singapore and Hong Kong for several years before reporting duties brought her home in time for Malaysia's elections in 2018. Now, she writes about Malaysian affairs and spends her spare time revisiting old haunts or exploring new ones in her favorite city.