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NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE

A guide to local favorites in Santa María la Ribera

  • By Allegra Ben-Amotz
  • Photos by Alicia Vera
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Santa María la Ribera
Mexico City
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Santa María la Ribera was one of the first planned “modern” colonias, or suburbs within the city, and its history is visible from its streets, where old mansions intersect with abandoned buildings. Still a little rough around the edges, it’s on the verge of gentrification. Start at the center, at Alameda Park’s Kiosco Morisco (where on Sundays you can find elderly couples taking cumbia dance lessons), and make your way around the quiet side streets that wind out from there.

Meet Allegra Ben-Amotz

Allegra has lived in Mexico City with her husband since 2016. She’s a New York native who traded one mega-city for another and loves it so much that she had a baby there.

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mail-solidEmail bytheway@washpost.com
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Santa María la Ribera

Kiosco Morisco
In the middle of the central plaza is a colorful, Moorish-style gazebo originally built as Mexico’s contribution to the 1884 World’s Fair. After being moved around the globe, it found its home in Alameda Park.
Kiosco Morisco, Calle Salvador Díaz Mirón S/N, Sta María la Ribera, 06400 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Museo de Geología
Right off the Kiosco Morisco, this grand building houses an oddly fascinating collection, including the bones of mammoths and prehistoric horses and cases of all types of gems and stones. Don’t skip the lower level’s Lynchian set of dioramas and pinball games.
Museo de Geología, Jaime Torres Bodet 176, Sta María la Ribera, 06400
Claudia Fernández showroom
Visual artist Claudia Fernández lives above the showroom in an early-1900s townhouse that displays the impressive collection of Mexican handcrafts and mid-century modern furniture that she and her team carefully restore. Visits are by appointment only.
Showroom, Eligió Ancona 171, Sta María la Ribera, 06400
Maria Ciento38
Excellent, fresh Sicilian food and wine in the courtyard of an 1800s mansion. Maria Ciento38 is perfect for a late comida when you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.
Maria Ciento38, Santa María La Ribera 138, Sta María la Ribera, 06400
OaxacAquí
Right off the Kiosco Morisco, this unassuming, authentic Oaxacan restaurant serves great mole and tlayudas.
OaxacAquí, Dr. Atl 207, Sta María la Ribera, 06400
Biblioteca Vasconcelos
One of the city’s unique structures, this mega-library feels almost surrealist in its design. Six floors of cantilevered book stacks house five impressive collections.
Biblioteca Vasconcelos, Mosqueta, Eje 1 Nte. S/N, Buenavista, 06350
Allegra Ben-Amotz
Allegra has lived in Mexico City with her husband since 2016. She’s a New York native who traded one mega-city for another and loves it so much that she had a baby there.
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Alicia Vera
Alicia is a Mexican American documentary photographer. She loves Mexico City for its explosion of the senses: The food, sounds, colors and textures make her city like no other.
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aliciavera

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