A guide to local favorites in Spaarndammerbuurt Amsterdam
When you think of Amsterdam and architecture, you think of its iconic canal houses. But the 20th-century architecture in Spaarndammerbuurt is no less impressive and has a story to tell. This is the birthplace of the first social housing project in the city, meant to lift workers from poverty and built in the iconic, expressionist style of the Amsterdam School. Wander among these blocks — “little palaces of the worker” — and you’ll see the vision of community and egalitarianism that the architects had in mind back then.
Meet your local
Tim is from Leiden, Netherlands, but moved to Amsterdam to study history in 2012 and never looked back. He’s quietly wondering how many years you have to live here to call yourself an Amsterdammer. Either way, it’s home.
tim.igor.snijdersWant to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
De Baarsjes in the West, a formerly rough neighborhood transformed in part by gentrification. It is still a great mix of people from all walks of life; just with more coffee bars per capita.
Best way to get around the city:
Here’s some unexpected advice: Don’t rent a bike, as romantic as that may seem to anyone visiting the bike capital of the world. Traffic is a hazard, even for the very experienced local cyclists, who are equally victims and perpetrators in a system of lawlessness. Travel by tram and, if possible, by foot.
Don’t leave without seeing:
The North section of town. The borough across the river IJ has almost everything the mainland has to offer, from great food to clubs and movies, all housed in interesting former industrial locations. And riding the ferry is a great way to really take in the city.
But the local favorite is really:
The museum district. Our biggest national cultural treasures, from Rembrandt to Van Gogh, all come together here in just one block. This is one of those rare places that will always draw both tourists and locals.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
The coffee. Amsterdam has a sprawling coffee culture. The espresso is very fresh and very acidic. It’s an interesting counterpoint to the darker flavor of Italian coffee.
Spaarndammerbuurt
Zaanhof complex
This courtyard, part of the first social housing project of the city, is known for its atypical pointed gables and yellow details. Look for the plaque that commemorates the end of World War II: “Against the backdrop of neighborhood schoolchildren singing, the Dutch flag was hoisted once again.”
Zaanhof, 1013 XV Amsterdam
Cafe de Walvis
This cafe in the neighborhood’s main street is where you can walk in for lunch or dinner after roaming the block. Look for the fish-stick sandwich as you take a seat in one of the vintage classroom chairs, a staple of Amsterdam restaurant culture.
Cafe de Walvis , Spaarndammerstraat 516, 1013 SZ Amsterdam
Museum Het Schip
A museum on the world-renowned Amsterdam School of Architecture, Het Schip is part of a 1910s social housing project. The collection includes everything from furniture to clocks in the stunning, expressionist style.
Museum Het Schip, Oostzaanstraat 45, 1013 WG Amsterdam
Westerpark
This big, beautiful park is next to the Westergas grounds, a former factory complex now filled with bars and restaurants. You can lie down on the big lawn or walk into the park to hear the city noise slowly disappear.
Westerpark, Haarlemmerweg 4, 1013 RW Amsterdam
Ons Genoegen
Even Amsterdammers have a hard time believing that this idyllic community farm is located within the busy Westerpark neighborhood. Ons Genoegen might be one of the last places in the city where 5 euros will buy you coffee and a sandwich. Staff are volunteers and clients of a local nonprofit.
Ons Genoegen, Spaarndammerdijk 319, 1014 AA Amsterdam
Rainarai
Located on the quieter edge of the lively Westergas terrain, this Algerian restaurant serves “nomadic cuisine.” Its specialty: a full table of mezze. Rainarai’s colorful Algerian founder also runs a delicatessen on Prinsengracht, in the heart of the Canal Ring.
Rainarai, Polonceaukade 40, 1014 DA Amsterdam
TonTon Club West
At TonTon, you can play Japanese arcade games, drink beers and have dinner — not necessarily in that order. TonTon has another location in the red light district and an air hockey club in the West called Puck, if that’s your game of choice.
TonTon Club West, Polonceaukade 27, 1014 DA Amsterdam
Tim Igor Snijders
Tim is from Leiden, Netherlands, but moved to Amsterdam to study history in 2012 and never looked back. He’s quietly wondering how many years you have to live here to call yourself an Amsterdammer. Either way, it’s home.
@tim.igor.snijdersRene Koster
Rene Koster is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Amsterdam.
@renemariakoster
