A guide to local favorites in Patriarch’s Ponds Moscow
Patriarch’s Ponds, or simply “Patriki,” as locals prefer to call it, is one of the city’s most happening neighborhoods, as well as one of the priciest. Patriki’s residents are well-off Russians and expats from all over the world; the neighborhood now has the highest concentration of restaurants opened during the recent “gastronomic revolution.” Walk around the pond and explore the Patriki’s narrow lanes, admire the architecture, then stop for a meal or drink (or both!) in one of this neighborhood’s iconic businesses.
Meet your local
Born and raised in Voronezh, Russia, Andrei moved to Moscow after graduating from university. He writes on culture for Lonely Planet, the Moscow Times and several Russian-language publications. An avid theatergoer, Andrei tries not to miss all the major premieres in between biking around central Moscow and exploring the local craft beer scene.
Want to get in touch?
Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
I live just a bit to the north of the Belorussky railway station. I love my neighborhood; there are lots of abandoned industrial spaces, along with Constructivist and Soviet modernism architecture.
Best way to get around the city:
The Moscow Metro, which is considered the most beautiful underground system in the world. It’s also efficient, with trains running every other minute.
Don’t leave without having:
Borscht with sour cream, chased with a shot of chilled vodka.
But the local favorite is really:
Georgian food. There’s a restaurant on pretty much every block. Khinkali (dumplings) and khachapuri are no longer something exotic, but rather staples of Moscow dining.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
The visual beauty of the city. I love taking taxis at night, when there are no traffic jams and you can fly by the Kremlin, the Bolshoi Theater or down Tverskaya Street.
Patriarch's Ponds
Patriarch’s Ponds
While the neighborhood’s name is plural, the main attraction is a single pond. There’s been only one for the past couple centuries, but it’s believed that at one point, there may have been as many as three. The pond is where the devil first appears in “The Master and Margarita,” Mikhail Bulgakov’s famous novel, referenced by a sign saying “Don’t talk to strangers."
7 Bolshoy Patriarshiy Pereulok, Bldg. 1, Moscow 123001, Russia
Dom Patriarch
Looking toward the Garden Ring, you can’t miss this building, the only high-rise in the neighborhood. One of the first “elite” residences of 1990s Moscow, Patriarch’s main attraction is the model of Vladimir Tatlin’s Monument to the Third International, also known as Tatlin’s Tower, a futuristic skyscraper in the shape of a twin helix that was never actually built. Models of Tatlin’s Tower can also be found at the New Tretyakov Gallery and Centre Pompidou in Paris.
44 Malaya Bronnaya, Moscow 123001, Russia
Uilliam’s
In the summer you can spot Uilliam’s by the crowd that stands in front, smoking and sipping their drinks. Good for a quick snack and a glass of prosecco, or for a full dinner, Uilliam’s is one of the pioneers of Moscow’s “foodie revolution” and still the most popular business in Patriarch’s Ponds.
20A Ulitsa Malaya Bronnaya, Moscow 123104, Russia
Levenson Printing House
This turn-of-the-20th-century house is probably one of the best restored buildings designed by Fyodor Shekhtel, Moscow’s most prolific art nouveau architect.
9 Malyy Kozikhinskiy Pereulok, Bldg. 7, Moscow 123001, Russia
Pinch
Pinch is a gastronomic bistro, perfect for some starters and artisanal cocktails, from Italian chef Luigi Magni. You can also mix your own gin-and-tonic by choosing from a wide selection of ingredients.
Pinch, Bol’shoy Palashevskiy Pereulok, 2, Moscow, Russia, 123104
Moscow Museum of Modern Art’s Education Center
This used to be one of the main branches of the Moscow Museum of Modern Art, but it was recently turned into an education wing. It still holds exhibitions, though, and has a well-stocked art library, all with free admission and a little cafe on the first floor with great breakfast and lunch options.
17 Ermolaevsky Lane, Moscow 123001, Russia
Andrei Muchnik
Born and raised in Voronezh, Russia, Andrei moved to Moscow after graduating from university. He writes on culture for Lonely Planet, the Moscow Times and several Russian-language publications. An avid theatergoer, Andrei tries not to miss all the major premieres in between biking around central Moscow and exploring the local craft beer scene.
Nanna Heitmann
Nanna is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Moscow. One of her favorite places to eat is the Cheburechnaya USSR restaurant, which allows a dive into Soviet nostalgia. You can also catch her having a late-night picnic on a little hill opposite the Square of Europe, enjoying a view over the Moskva River.
