Haeryun has lived in Seoul since 2014. She loves its mountains, although more the idea of them than the actual hiking.
Where I live:
In the back alleys of Itaewon. I love Itaewon’s complicated history, mostly shaped by decades of U.S. military presence, and the quiet faces of the neighborhood when the parties are over.
Best way to get around the city:
I’m a huge fan of the bus system, but the Seoul metro is the easiest mode of transportation for English-speaking tourists.
Don’t leave without having:
A hike up the mountains in spring, a bowl of cold naengmyeon in summer, a walk by the Deoksugung Stone Wall Road in autumn, and a warm, enriching sundaeguk in winter.
But the local favorite is really:
The Han River, which starts in the eastern mountains of the peninsula, cuts through Seoul and flushes into the Yellow Sea in the west. It’s the lifeline of Korean history and a great place for picnics.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
Cycling by the Han River in spring, when yellow forsythias are in full bloom, and watching the distant skyscrapers change colors throughout the day.