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A woman and a child taking a selfie with the view of the Royal Palace in Campo del Moro Gardens.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE

A guide to local favorites in Palacio

A woman and a child taking a selfie with the view of the Royal Palace in Campo del Moro Gardens.
  • By Almudena Ávalos
  • Photos by Guillermo Gutierrez
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Palacio
Madrid
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This is the best-preserved and most historical district in Madrid. If you’re here during the week, take a stroll through the maze of streets and rub elbows with neighborhood residents. You’ll find the remains of ancient walls (dating from the 9th century), landmark parks, heartbreakingly beautiful homes, churches, hidden squares, century-old taverns, and a lovely view of the sunset from the area near the Royal Palace (which, no, is not the home of the royal family).

Meet Almudena Ávalos

Few people can say they are grandchildren of true Madrileños, but Almudena is one of them. She travels the world now as a food and culture writer, but she always returns to Madrid to discover hidden gems to share.

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Palacio

Bodegas Ricla
While tourists venture no farther than Mercado San Miguel, Madrid residents slip into this tiny vintage establishment, founded in 1867, to stand at the counter and order a vermouth on tap. If you need the restroom, you have to walk behind the bar counter.
6, calle de cuchilleros, Madrid, 28005, España
Alpargatería Casa Hernanz
Alpargatas (espadrille shoes) are worn all over Spain and know no class distinctions. They are made from esparto grass, and this shop, established in 1845, sells them in more than 50 colors. There are many options, and you’ll want to try them all.
18, calle Toledo, Madrid, 28005, España
La Daniela
Madrid’s classic dish is cocido, a chickpea stew with meat and vegetables, and La Daniela⁠ — which has several restaurants around the city⁠ — is a popular place to enjoy it. If you aren’t in the mood for such a hearty dish but don’t want to miss out, stand at the bar and order a beer, and you’ll get a tapa of ropavieja, a sample of cocido without the broth. The individual serving of tortilla de patata (Spanish omelet) is tasty as well.
9, calle de Cuchilleros, Madrid, 28005, España
Helena Rohner Jewelry
Buzz in at the door where you see the little sign and step inside this workshop, with its high, wood-beam ceiling. This is where they assemble and sell the sculptured jewelry designed by Helena Rohner, a recipient of Spain’s 2014 gold medal for merit in fine arts.
4, calle del Almendro, Madrid, 28005, España
Campo del Moro Park
There is a single entrance gate to this park, where the Royal Palace has rolled out a carpet of green grass to welcome visitors. Created by Queen Maria Cristina in the 19th century, this impeccably maintained park will make you forget you are in the middle of the city. Many newlyweds choose it as the picturesque backdrop for their wedding photos.
1, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto, Madrid, 28013, España
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Almudena Ávalos
Few people can say they are grandchildren of true Madrileños, but Almudena is one of them. She travels the world now as a food and culture writer, but she always returns to Madrid to discover hidden gems to share.
Guillermo Gutierrez
Guillermo is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Madrid.
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