Local gems among typical tourist sites make this a great riverside stroll. This is where the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Pho and more are located, but locals love it for more than the obvious. There are vibrant, historical commercial areas, an important university campus and early-19th-century buildings.
Meet your local
Jinda is a half-American and half-Thai journalist who has lived in Bangkok, off and on, for over two decades. She’s also lived in various parts of the United States, India, Singapore and Australia. Her usual obsession with salsa dancing has recently given way to kizomba.
jindaellaWant to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com
Where I live:
I used to live in the suburbs (over 12 miles away — Bangkok is huge), but I’ve now settled near the center of town.
Best way to get around the city:
The second-best way to get around is by the subway or Skytrain; the absolute best way is motorbike taxi, which is also the most dangerous.
Don’t leave without having:
A massage or salon experience. Massages here are cheap enough to do every day, and you can get high-end color or straightening services for a fraction of what you’d pay in the United States.
But the local favorite is really:
Nothing. Thais are finicky about our food, and we’ll happily discuss for hours which place serves up the best congee, duck rice and fried garlic chicken — so you’ll never get a consensus on a Thai favorite.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
Looking up at the night sky from the back of a motorbike taxi, navigating an empty side street. It’s so tranquil.
Bangkok Old City (Rattanakosin)
Thammasat University
At Thailand’s second-oldest university, there are weekly activities open to the public, such as debates and film screenings, at Pridi Banomyong Library and elsewhere.
Thammasat University, 2 Khwaeng Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand
Phahurat Road
This is Bangkok’s Little India, giving a great look at the city’s ethnic diversity. The Dome of Gurudwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha is a significant neighborhood landmark and a good base from which to explore.
Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand 10200
Museum Siam
This museum explores what it means to be Thai through preserved Thai homes from the colonial-expansion era, seminars, exhibits and interactive activities.
Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd., Khwaeng Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand
Chinatown
On special occasions, like Chinese New Year, the entire road turns into a celebration. Otherwise, check out the various teahouses, dumpling stores, hipster hostels, art galleries and historical local breakfast places, such as On Lok Yun.
72 Charoen Krung Rd., Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand 10200
Tep Bar
Tep Bar isn’t the newest bar on Soi Nana, but it’s been the most successful at being simultaneously traditional and trendy. Charming teak furniture, a range of “lao dong” (Thai herbal whiskey) and a traditional Thai band make Tep Bar a consistent watering hole for enjoying music with a drink.
Tep Bar, 69-71 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd., Pom Prap, Pom Prap Sattruphai, Bangkok, Thailand 10100
Jinda Wedel
Jinda is a half-American and half-Thai journalist who has lived in Bangkok, off and on, for over two decades. She’s also lived in various parts of the United States, India, Singapore and Australia. Her usual obsession with salsa dancing has recently given way to kizomba.
@jindaellaAndre Malerba
Andre is a contributing photographer for The Washington Post based in Bangkok. He spent three years in Myanmar from 2013 and has since worked throughout the region, from Sri Lanka to Mongolia. Of the many amazing aspects of Bangkok, Andre most appreciates the care that Thai people bring to their food, whether it be a simple plate of khao man gai or specialty coffee at an upscale cafe. This level of attention to detail spills over into everyday life, and even the most humble living spaces show signs of love and caring.
@amcaptures