1

Desktop notifications are on   | Turn off

Get breaking news alerts from The Washington Post

Turn on desktop notifications?

Yes Not now
  • Sections
  • Home
The Washington Post logo
Democracy Dies in Darkness
  • Try one month for $1
  • Username
  • Sign In
    • My Post
    • My Reading List
    • Account Settings
    • Newsletters & alerts
    • Gift subscriptions
    • Contact us
    • Help desk
    • My Post
    • My Reading List
    • Account Settings
    • Newsletters & alerts
    • Gift subscriptions
    • Contact us
    • Help desk
    The Washington Post

    Detours with locals.
    Travel tips you can trust.

    • News
    • Tips
    • Newsletter

    Cities

    News

    Tips

    Newsletter

    One Square Mile

    The Chakri Maha Prasat throne hall.
    One Square Mile

    A guide to local favorites in Bangkok Old City (Rattanakosin)
    Bangkok

    By Jinda Wedel
    Photos by Andre Malerba
    Add to list
    On my list

    NeighborhoodsBack to top

    Bangkok Old City (Rattanakosin)Bangkok

    View on
    Google Maps
    • Thammasat University
    • Phahurat Road
    • Museum Siam
    • Chinatown
    • Tep Bar
    View on Google Maps
    Share
    Share on Facebook
    Share on Twitter
    Share via Email

    Local gems among typical tourist sites make this a great riverside stroll. This is where the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Pho and more are located, but locals love it for more than the obvious. There are vibrant, historical commercial areas, an important university campus and early-19th-century buildings.

    Meet your local

    Jinda is a half-American and half-Thai journalist who has lived in Bangkok, off and on, for over two decades. She’s also lived in various parts of the United States, India, Singapore and Australia. Her usual obsession with salsa dancing has recently given way to kizomba.

    jindaella

    Want to get in touch? Email bytheway@washpost.com


    Where I live:
    I used to live in the suburbs (over 12 miles away — Bangkok is huge), but I’ve now settled near the center of town.

    Best way to get around the city:
    The second-best way to get around is by the subway or Skytrain; the absolute best way is motorbike taxi, which is also the most dangerous.

    Don’t leave without having:
    A massage or salon experience. Massages here are cheap enough to do every day, and you can get high-end color or straightening services for a fraction of what you’d pay in the United States.

    But the local favorite is really:
    Nothing. Thais are finicky about our food, and we’ll happily discuss for hours which place serves up the best congee, duck rice and fried garlic chicken — so you’ll never get a consensus on a Thai favorite.

    If I moved, I’d most miss:
    Looking up at the night sky from the back of a motorbike taxi, navigating an empty side street. It’s so tranquil.

    Bangkok Old City (Rattanakosin)

    Thammasat University

    At Thailand’s second-oldest university, there are weekly activities open to the public, such as debates and film screenings, at Pridi Banomyong Library and elsewhere.


    Thammasat University, 2 Khwaeng Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand

    Website

    • Location
    • Website
    • Twitter

    Phahurat Road

    This is Bangkok’s Little India, giving a great look at the city’s ethnic diversity. The Dome of Gurudwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha is a significant neighborhood landmark and a good base from which to explore.


    Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand 10200

    • Location

    Museum Siam

    This museum explores what it means to be Thai through preserved Thai homes from the colonial-expansion era, seminars, exhibits and interactive activities.


    Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd., Khwaeng Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand

    Website

    • 011-66-2-225-2777
    • Location
    • Website
    • Instagram

    Chinatown

    On special occasions, like Chinese New Year, the entire road turns into a celebration. Otherwise, check out the various teahouses, dumpling stores, hipster hostels, art galleries and historical local breakfast places, such as On Lok Yun.


    72 Charoen Krung Rd., Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand 10200

    • Location

    Tep Bar

    Tep Bar isn’t the newest bar on Soi Nana, but it’s been the most successful at being simultaneously traditional and trendy. Charming teak furniture, a range of “lao dong” (Thai herbal whiskey) and a traditional Thai band make Tep Bar a consistent watering hole for enjoying music with a drink.


    Tep Bar, 69-71 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd., Pom Prap, Pom Prap Sattruphai, Bangkok, Thailand 10100

    Website

    • 011-669-8467-2944
    • Location
    • Website
    • Instagram
    There’s more to see
    One Square Mile
    City Guide

    On Nut Road
    (Sukhumvit Soi 77)

    Pathum Wan District

    Bangkok

    Jinda Wedel

    Jinda is a half-American and half-Thai journalist who has lived in Bangkok, off and on, for over two decades. She’s also lived in various parts of the United States, India, Singapore and Australia. Her usual obsession with salsa dancing has recently given way to kizomba.

    @jindaella

    Andre Malerba

    Andre is a contributing photographer for The Washington Post based in Bangkok. He spent three years in Myanmar from 2013 and has since worked throughout the region, from Sri Lanka to Mongolia. Of the many amazing aspects of Bangkok, Andre most appreciates the care that Thai people bring to their food, whether it be a simple plate of khao man gai or specialty coffee at an upscale cafe. This level of attention to detail spills over into everyday life, and even the most humble living spaces show signs of love and caring.

    @amcaptures
    City Guides

    Dubrovnik

    Croatia

    Montreal

    Canada

    Bogota

    Colombia

    Kuala Lumpur

    Malaysia

    Toronto

    Canada

    Denver

    United States

    • Contact the Newsroom
    • Contact Customer Care
    • Request a Correction
    • Send a News Tip
    • Download The Washington Post App
    • Policies & Standards
    • Terms of Service
    • Privacy Policy
    • Print Products Terms of Sale
    • Digital Products Terms of Sale
    • CA Notice of Collection
    • Do Not Sell My Personal Information
    • Submissions & Discussion Policy
    • RSS Terms of Service
    • Ad Choices
    About Us
    • Public Relations
    • Careers
    • Diversity & Inclusion
    • Newspaper in Education
    • Today's Paper
    • WP BrandStudio
    • Events
    • Policies & Standards
    Get The Post
    • Home Delivery
    • Digital Subscription
    • Gift Subscriptions
    • Mobile & Apps
    • Newsletters & Alerts
    • Washington Post Live
    • Reprints & Permissions
    • Post Store
    • Photo Store
    • e-Replica
    Help
    • Contact the Newsroom
    • Contact Customer Care
    • Reader Representative
    • Advertise
    • Licensing & Syndication
    • Request a Correction
    • Send a News Tip
    Terms of Use
    • Digital Products Terms of Sale
    • Print Products Terms of Sale
    • Terms of Service
    • Privacy Policy
    • CA Notice of Collection
    • Do Not Sell My Personal Information
    • Submissions & Discussion Policy
    • Request a Correction
    • RSS Terms of Service
    • Ad Choices
    washingtonpost.com © 1996-2021 The Washington Post