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NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE

A guide to local favorites in Kadikoy

  • By Jennifer Hattam
  • Photos by Emanuele Satolli
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Kadikoy
Istanbul
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There’s a youthful energy and a relaxed vibe to the central neighborhoods of Kadikoy, a district on the eastern, Asian side of Istanbul that’s just a short (and sublimely beautiful) commuter-ferry ride away from the city’s most famous historical sights. Streets radiating out from the ferry pier are teeming with hip cafes, lively bars, casual restaurants and small boutiques. The Yeldegirmeni area to the north has a scruffier, more bohemian feel, while Moda, to the south, emanates an established kind of cool.

Meet Jennifer Hattam

Jennifer is a journalist covering environmental, political, social and urban issues, as well as arts, culture, food and travel. Originally from San Francisco, she loved Istanbul upon her first visit and has lived there since 2008. She still has no plans to swap her coffee addiction for the local tea habit.

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Kadikoy

Mural Istanbul
Some two dozen multistory murals were commissioned during a Mural Istanbul Festival held annually from 2012 to 2018, making wandering Kadikoy’s backstreets a street-art scavenger hunt. There’s a good cluster — including lifelike portraits and a spaceship that’s tractor-beaming cars up into the air — around Resit Efendi Sokak and Misaki Milli Sokak to get you started.
Resit Efendi Sokak, Talimhane Sokak and Genclik Sokak, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34714
Arthere
Founded by Syrian artists in Istanbul — part of a mass refugee movement across the border to Turkey — this homey cafe, gallery, artist studio and events space gives a glimpse into creative worlds beyond the headlines.
Arthere, Beydagi Sokak 3A, Yeldegirmeni, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34716
Baris Manco Evi
The ’70s never ended at this house-museum devoted to beloved musician Baris Manco, a pioneer of the psychedelic “Anatolian rock” style who later was a popular variety-show host. The collection of his flamboyant stage costumes needs no translation.
Baris Manco Evi, Yusuf Kamil Pasa Sokak 5, Moda, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34710
Moda shoreline
The sunsets are spectacular from the seafront south of the ferry pier. It’s a favorite local spot for walking, biking, running, picnicking or just chilling by the water with a beer and a bag of sunflower seeds.
Muhurdar Caddesi, Moda, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34710
Basta! street food bar
With two trained chefs at the helm, the durum (wrap) selection here is hardly your standard kebab-shop offering. Think along the lines of slow-cooked lamb ribs with roasted onions and harissa, plus a creative array of seasonal salads.
Basta! street food bar, Sakiz Sokak 1, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34710
Bar Street
It’s easy to see why locals call this nightlife hot spot Barlar Sokak (Bar Street). Karga and Bina, both in rambling multilevel houses, and Arkaoda, with its big backyard, are all top spots for drinks and music.
Kadife Sokak between Sakiz Gulu Sokak and Dr Esat Isik Caddesi, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34710
Kadikoy Market
Purveyors of pickles, produce, fish, olives, honey, strands of dried vegetables, nuts and much more line Gunesli Bahce Sokak, offering colorful photo ops and edible souvenirs. (Stock up here for a picnic on the Moda shoreline.)
Gunesli Bahce Sokak between Yasa Caddesi and Muvakkithane Caddesi, Kadikoy, Istanbul, 34710
Jennifer Hattam
Jennifer is a journalist covering environmental, political, social and urban issues, as well as arts, culture, food and travel. Originally from San Francisco, she loved Istanbul upon her first visit and has lived there since 2008. She still has no plans to swap her coffee addiction for the local tea habit.
Emanuele Satolli
Emanuele is a photojournalist based in Istanbul. Since obtaining his Masters in Journalism from the University of Turin, he has specialized in stories about the human condition, social change, and armed conflict. He loves living in Istanbul, a city in two continents. Every day he tries to find an excuse to cross the Bosporus sea from Asia to Europe in a 15-minute ferry trip.

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