A local’s guide to Charlotte

It wasn’t long ago that Charlotte’s downtown area was eerily quiet after the 9-to-5 crowd got off work and headed home to the ’burbs. Today, you’ll find Uptown packed with folks heading to restaurants, shows or late-night spots. Explore one of the city’s historic areas, Fourth Ward, or one of the many parks. Curious why we call it Uptown? The most-cited story is that the heart of Charlotte is on a hill, letting you see the skyline even from miles away. Check in to the Ivey’s Hotel, a chic spot in an old department store, for a glamorous vibe. Find this neighborhood.

You’ll need to book an Airbnb to stay on this side of town, known as the artsy neighborhood. NoDa (for “North Davidson”) can be made as high- or low-energy as you’d like, by checking out shops and galleries for a calm day or popping in to see live music at the Evening Muse or Neighborhood Theatre to amp up an evening. Located on the newly opened extension of the light rail, the area offers easy access to Uptown and South End, too. Much of the city’s brewery culture grew out of NoDa, making it a destination for beer drinkers, with several breweries within walking or biking distance. Find this neighborhood.

This Myers Park brunch-all-day spot has a laid-back vibe, with exposed brick and floor-to-ceiling windows that encourage you to spend a few hours with mimosas and avocado toast. Sourced locally and inclusive of vegan and gluten-free diners, the menu ranges from shared plates to bowls and sandwiches. On the must-order list: the slab bacon to share.

BTW: Spend some time in the Selwyn Avenue area after brunch, checking out nearby wine shop and chocolatier Petit Philippe, boutique KK Bloom, upscale men’s outfitter the Sporting Gent or marketplace Reid’s Fine Foods.

James Beard Award semifinalist Greg Collier and his wife, Subrina, are serving the city’s best breakfast inside Seventh Street Public Market. This small food hall is full of options, including a juice bar and crepes, and is open through dinner, but it’s Collier’s cooking that stands out most. His style is elevated in flavor yet unfussy, and the menu is locally sourced. You don’t want to miss his grits, which are the best in town.

BTW: Orrman’s Cheese Shop and Assorted Table Wine Shoppe are also in the market. Grab a cheese plate and a bottle of wine to take onto your hotel balcony later in the day.

Charlotte has never really stood out among barbecue towns. Sweet Lew’s is looking to change that. After opening his joint in a former mechanic’s garage in an up-and-coming neighborhood, chef and co-owner Lewis Donald serves barbecue cooked over wood and wood alone. His menu includes brisket, ribs, pork and chicken with classic barbecue sides. If you’re a first-timer, a good order is a pulled-pork sandwich or the brisket with mac and cheese and collard greens and a tea. The restaurant serves daily specials, including fried chicken on Sundays. Order it, and dunk each juicy, crispy bite in the house-made Alabama white sauce.

BTW: The sauces for sale by the bottle are a great gift to bring back home.

A modern reincarnation of the fish camp, Hello, Sailor is the second effort from the owners of nationally recognized restaurant Kindred. It’s a bit of a drive from the city — about 25 minutes without traffic — but worth it for the lakeside view. Dishes such as fried catfish, hush puppies and Calabash-style shrimp are throwbacks to the days of fish fried to order, while hamachi and crab claws give the restaurant a touch of haute cuisine.

Locals love to say Charlotte is a great place to live because it’s only a few hours from the beach and a few hours from the mountains, but this Uptown restaurant makes the seaside feel much closer. Stellar service and a seafood-focused menu is a welcome break from the heavy eating one tends to do on vacation, especially in the South. Calming blues and subtle nautical touches make the restaurant feel elegant, not kitschy. The attentive and friendly service will make you appreciate Southern hospitality.

North Carolina cuisine is changing. We no longer claim fried chicken and biscuits as our most notable dishes (though both are fantastic). The Stanley shows what “New Southern” is all about. With a seasonal menu that changes almost daily, this restaurant celebrates the farmer as much as the chef. It’s not unusual to find dishes here simply called “Spring,” a medley of the first harvest of the season, or “corn,” one ingredient presented as many ways as the kitchen could dream up. Chef-owner Paul Verica is cooking in a way that takes advantage of North Carolina’s long growing season and dedicated farmers — the way of the New South.

This no-reservations restaurant has remained a favorite in the city since it opened in 2009. The eclectic menu includes sushi, Southern-tinged tacos, meat skewers and ramen. The interior matches the menu’s quirks: a taxidermy peacock midflight on the wall; comfortable, mismatched furniture that creates a lounge area; antiques that give the feeling that you’re in the home of a well-traveled collector. Prepare for a wait, and be sure to order the pork belly tacos. Glazed with an Asian barbecue sauce and topped with compressed watermelon, they’re sweet, savory, heavy and light all at once. For an indulgent Southern bite, order the Dirty South Nachos — fried chicken skins topped with pimento cheese and pickled okra. They’re so rich, you may not want more than two, but you’ll be glad you tried them.

BTW: Ask for a table on the patio on a nice night, then grab a drink nearby at Legion Brewing or Snug Harbor while you wait.

You’ll have to buy a $10 membership for entry into this bar, but in return you’ll find some of the city’s best cocktails. Dot Dot Dot’s slightly hard-to-find entrance at the back of a shopping center in the Montford Park area only enhances its speakeasy vibe. Inside, you’ll be seduced by dark wood, deep reds and a beautifully lighted back bar drawing your eyes to the work of the bartenders. Choose a classic, like a Boulevardier, or go with one of the bar’s tried-and-true drinks, such as the Hot Box, an Old Fashioned smoked in a torched Booker’s box. The food menu makes this place suitable for dinner, too.