This historical neighborhood is probably most emblematic of Houston’s “Y’all Means All” embrace of queerness and Southern creativity. If EaDo is cool, then Montrose is ice cold.
The attractiveness of the neighborhood has led investors and fancy restaurateurs to flood the area over the past few years, driving out longtime residents and mom-and-pop staples. But even as some have wanted to cash in on a general acceptance of LGBTQ identity, Montrose has stayed true to its tightknit community roots.
Meet your local
Drew is a Houston-based reporter for By The Way. He reports on breaking travel news and trends.
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Where I live:
East River, an offshoot of EaDo that’s the next target for development. There’s not much around except for a bunch of budding townhouses, a record store and an outdoor cocktail bar called the New Potato.
Best way to get around the city:
Houston is a city made up of smaller cities. Due to a mishmash of no-parking zones and the perception that cars outnumber people here, it’s best to use a ride-hailing service to get between the happening neighborhoods.
Don’t leave without having:
A rib-eye at any of the bars that hosts a steak night throughout the week — and if you can find where Bryan Hawes of Meat Mojo is cooking, even better.
But the local favorite is really:
Food trucks. Tacos, burgers, fried chicken, pizza, gyros, ice cream; you name it, Houston has a food truck for it, and food truck festivals are attended in droves.
If I moved, I’d most miss:
The variety and quality of some of the best foods from across the world that have found a home here.
Montrose
Tacos Tierra Caliente
This cash-only truck sells tacos at ridiculous bargain prices — an al pastor taco on flour will run you $2. Its popularity has allowed the team to run a couple other trucks, but stop in to the permanently parked one across the street from the historical West Alabama Ice House and grab a beer on the patio.
Tacos Tierra Caliente, 2003 W. Alabama St., Houston, Tex. 77098
Anvil Bar & Refuge
This industrial-themed speakeasy-style bar holds the torch as Houston’s first dedicated to classic American cocktails. Owner Bobby Heugel’s 10-year-old Anvil features an unmatched selection of spirits — the list is 65 pages long — and the 100 list, which is a menu of cocktail recipes the bartenders here should (and do) know by heart.
Anvil Bar & Refuge, 1424 Westheimer Rd., Houston, Tex. 77006
Poison Girl
In a neighborhood marked by change, Poison Girl stands out as a space that not only has been here awhile but also isn’t interested in being trendy. Although it never looks quite open, the relaxed dive bar has cheap drinks, a reputable selection of whiskey and a cozy interior designed for conversation.
Poison Girl, 1641 Westheimer Rd. B, Houston, Tex. 77006
Inversion Coffee and Art
With rotating art installations and some of the best espresso in the city, Inversion acts as an incubator for some of the most connected artists in town. The space features a long, community-style table for work; food trucks that stop by for lunch; and the exterior windows are drip-painted the colors of the rainbow flag.
Inversion Coffee and Art, 1953 Montrose Blvd. A, Houston, Tex. 77006
Montrose Paint Wall
In a town full of buildings and artists, Houston was bound to have a thriving street art scene. A marquee marks the spot of this multicolored mural painted on the side of an unoccupied building that used to be a home-goods store. Snap a shot in front of it while strolling down Westheimer.
Montrose Paint Wall, 1435 Westheimer Rd., Houston, Tex. 77006
Leopard Lounge
On one of the highest trafficked corners in Montrose — Westheimer Road at Dunlavy Street — antiques shops, art galleries and cafes abound. Leopard Lounge is a thrift store that attracts a lot of attention with its sidewalk stereo, outdoor shopping rack and mannequins dressed like characters from the Nickelodeon cartoon “Doug.” Who doesn’t love thrifting?
Leopard Lounge, 1657 Westheimer Rd., Houston, Tex. 77006
Paulie’s
This unassuming Italian cafe offers an impressive selection of traditional classics without the fancy adornments and big-ticket price of some other places. Walking a couple blocks from the main Westheimer strip is well worth it for the handmade bucatini puttanesca, and the wine bar next door, Camerata, provides a relaxing atmosphere.
Paulie’s, 1834 Westheimer Rd., Houston, Tex. 77098
Rudyard’s
At 41 years old, Rudyard’s is a true Montrose institution. The British-style pub was recently revamped with a new chef and menu, elevating the cuisine far beyond the lowly “bar food” label. Rudz, as it’s called in town, has bar games, a great selection of craft beer and a venue for live shows upstairs.
Rudyard’s, 2010 Waugh Dr., Houston, Tex. 77006
Drew Jones
Drew is a Houston-based reporter for By The Way. He reports on breaking travel news and trends.
@drewkjones @drewkjonesBrandon Thibodeaux
Brandon Thibodeaux is a contributing photographer to The Washington Post based in Houston. In addition to his assignment work and creative commissions, he explores life in the American South.
@BrandonThibodeaux