A local’s guide to Philadelphia

If you’re a traveler who likes to hit the ground running, Rittenhouse Square is the most convenient. From here you have access to shopping, great coffee shops, lauded restaurants and bars, and you can walk to the Benjamin Franklin Parkway to take in the museums. At its center is Rittenhouse Square Park, where locals gather to people-watch and picnic when the weather is warm. Find this neighborhood.

Nothing lets you travel back in time like walking around Old City’s cobblestone streets. The historic 18th-century gardens scattered up and down Third and Walnut streets are especially charming in the summer. A cluster of famous attractions are in this neighborhood, but walk toward the Delaware River waterfront and discover locally owned shops in Old City’s design district. Find this neighborhood.

Chef Greg Vernick’s flagship Vernick Food & Drink is considered one of the top restaurants in the city, so his second venture, a coffee bar and cafe, in partnership with the Four Seasons Hotel inside the recently opened Comcast Technology Center, was a welcome addition. Start your day off with a selection of in-house baked goods or fuel your morning with made-to-order coffee and the warm seven-minute egg, which comes with English pea hummus, cherry tomato salad and a crispy pita.

BTW: Don’t miss pieces by contemporary artists Jenny Holzer and Conrad Shawcross as you take the escalators up to the cafe.

One of the first things you’ll notice about this sunlight-drenched cafe are the array of plants arranged around the dining room. A great option to break bread with the locals, Hungry Pigeon is known for its approachable comfort foods. A cafe by day and restaurant by night, it has an impressive selection of pastries with special selections available on weekends. The egg-and-cheese sandwich, served on a homemade English muffin, with a cup of coffee hits the spot.

BTW: After breakfast, explore the Fabric Row neighborhood. Fourth Street has a collection of historic fabric and vintage stores, boutiques and places to eat.

This food hall gives you the experience of local Philadelphia gems all under one roof. The historic Bourse building, opened in the late 1800s and housed a stock and commodities exchange. It was later updated for commercial retail use in the late ’70s. After being renovated once more in 2018, it became home to vendors representing a diverse selection of cuisines — encompassing fancy grilled-cheese sandwiches, Philippine comfort food at Lalo, specialty coffee at locally owned Menagerie and the local distillery Bluebird. It’s a good spot for lunch but also open until midnight on Friday and Saturdays.

BTW: The Liberty Bell and Independence Hall are across the street from the Bourse.

If you’ve heard of Zahav, you know getting in there isn’t easy. But luckily chef Michael Solomonov has a few fast-casual options dotted across the city. Named after one of Tel Aviv’s most popular streets, Dizengoff is modeled after the hummus stalls (hummusiyas) found around Israel. From the classic tahini hummus platter to seasonal specialties, the menu rotates. Pita is baked fresh, and hummus platters are made to order; each comes with a side of delicious pickles and chopped salad.

BTW: Get your order to go and head toward Rittenhouse Square Park for a meal with a side of people-watching.

The atmosphere and decor is breathtaking, yet this restaurant still feels super-welcoming and intimate. This is a treat-yourself kind of spot, and it’s totally worth it. Chef Chad Williams’s new American-style menu features a seasonal selection of housemade pastas, freshly shucked oysters, and entrees like dry-aged duck for two. If cocktails are your thing, then this is a must-visit for the unique and classic offerings from Paul MacDonald.

Want dinner and cocktails with a view? Then head to the eighth floor of the Bok building in South Philadelphia for Irwin’s, an Instagram-worthy space featuring a mix of mid-century modern design, graffiti, exposed concrete and greenery. If the weather permits, take in an aerial panorama of the city on the terrace. Named after the architect of the historic Bok building, the Irwin’s menu features a Middle Eastern-inspired collection of small plates served from an open kitchen. Reservations are encouraged, unless you get there right when it opens, at 5 p.m., for one of the first-come-first-served seats at the bar.

BTW: After dinner, head up to the top floor and grab a nightcap at Bok Bar, which offers one of the best views of Philadelphia’s skyline.

It’s truly all fun and games at this bi-level dive bar-art gallery. The bar on the first floor greets you with bright walls, artist Adam Wallacavage’s signature octopus chandeliers, a counter strewn with lollipops and fun little toys. The top floor functions as an ever-changing and uncurated gallery, covered wall to wall in wheatpastes and graffiti from local and international street artists. Enjoy your drinks sitting in a vintage bumper car or while playing a game of pool. “TMoms” regularly hosts trivia nights, film screenings, readings, pop-up shops, arts and craft shows and live performances, so there’s never a dull moment. It’s also very vegan-friendly (sandwiches, cheesesteaks, burgers). The signature cocktails offer a twist on classics; try a Pickletini, hand-bottled Sazerac or Cosmo Cloud, which involves a traditional cosmo poured over cotton candy.

BTW: Grab a fun, adhesive souvenir from the second-floor sticky-art machine, loaded up with collections from sticker artists.

There’s always a line out the door at this ice cream parlor and soda fountain — for a good reason. Opened by brothers Eric and Ryan Berley in 2004 in a turn-of-the-century building, the shop is old-timey, down to the servers in whites and bow ties. They serve homemade sodas, sundaes and unique ice cream flavors and baked goods made from scratch. Ice creams feature premium seasonal ingredients, including milk sourced locally from Berks and Lancaster counties. The sugar and cake-waffle cones are made in-house and cooked on old-fashioned irons. Try a scoop of the signature Franklin Mint Chip: white peppermint swirled with green crème de menthe and dark bittersweet chocolate chunks. Or the Philadelphia Vanilla Bean, which was inspired by the shop’s namesake, Benjamin Franklin. Its blend of Mexican and Madagascar vanilla extracts give it a sweet, spicy and creamy flavor profile. Seasonal sorbets and nondairy ice creams are also available.

BTW: It is cash-only. Get your scoops to go in one of their signature cartons in the original patented design from 1894.

Located in Fairmount Park since 1956, the house was designed by Junzo Yoshimura and built with hinoki (a Japanese cypress) in Nagoya, Japan. Both the house and garden were official gifts from Japan to the United States in an effort to strengthen relations that had diminished after World War II. The garden features small waterfalls and a beautiful pond with colorful koi.

BTW: Visiting can be a serene and meditative experience — if you get there before the crowds. Plan to arrive right as they open.

If you’re a runner or biker, or you just want to go on a long walk to relax, this trail is perfect to hop on. There are multiple access points. If you’re in Center City, for example, start off at the bridge at 2400 Market St. From there go north toward Fairmount Park to get to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and historic Boathouse Row. Or head south to “walk on water” while you stroll along the one of the most iconic segments of the trail, the Boardwalk.

An addition to the bustling Delaware River waterfront, Cherry Street Pier was built into the shell of a century-old municipal pier. Housed in it are artist studios; food trucks offering Indonesian fare, homemade biscuits, salads and sandwiches; ice cream; a bar serving craft beer and spirits; and art. Practically every weekend brings some type of event, such as flea markets, music and performances. It’s a great place to mingle and take in views of the river, the Benjamin Franklin Bridge and possibly groups of folks doing yoga next door at Race Street Pier.

BTW: Try to arrive near sunset for an Instagrammable view of the waterfront.

Everyone knows the Philadelphia Museum of Art — the columns, the steps, the “Rocky” scene. But the city has more than hits of the classic fine-arts world. The Institute of Contemporary Art, on the University of Pennsylvania campus, was created with students in mind and showcases up-and-coming and not-yet-discovered artists. One case in point: Andy Warhol. The museum hosted his first solo show in 1965, which helped launch his career.

BTW: If you want more contemporary art, head over to the Leonard Pearlstein Gallery on neighboring Drexel University’s campus.

One of the most calming retail experiences you may ever have. Between the sounds of the indoor pond and the beautifully crafted Japanese items, this store, founded by husband-and-wife team Kaz and Yuka Morihata, is a respite from Center City buzz. The couple regularly jaunts to Japan to scout home goods and beauty and wellness products, like shiatsu pressure-point sticks and charcoal blotting papers.

BTW: Rikumo also has an online store, in case you’re flying home with little luggage space.

Philly loves craft beer and celebrates it at the start of every June with the ultra-popular Philly Beer Week. Yards Brewing Company has been a local institution for over two decades, and at its taproom and brewery, you can try over 20 of their own brews. Its dining menu is beer-friendly (Bavarian-style pretzels, made in-house with an IPA, Yards mustard and Philly Pale Ale beer cheese; a 14-hour smoked brisket; or a BBQ Board, for going all-out with your choice of ribs, brisket or chicken). Want to know more about the brewery and its process? They offer 40-minute tours daily.

BTW: Out late? Head across the street to Silk City for DJ sets if you’re in the mood for dancing.