Georgia farmers banking on olive groves

"We thought we could be somewhat sloppy applying herbicide and learned pretty quickly that was wrong," Kevin says. Other lessons learned: "We lost 65 to 70 percent of what we had in the ground in the harsh winter of 2008."

Nonetheless, the Shaws' diligence shows. As people around here like to say, "Kevin could make something grow out of blacktop."

With the expectation of a commercial harvest a year away, Georgia Olive Farms co-op partner and lawyer Berrien Sutton has been investigating processing options. He hasn't found a commercial olive oil press east of the Mississippi.

For now, the answer seems to be mobile: a press that operates inside what looks like a tractor-trailer and can park at a spot central to the olive farmers. Sutton has contacted Mill on Wheels, which makes the rounds of boutique olive-oil farms in California. Storage facilities would have to be built, Jason says.

Georgia Olive Farms got its early taste of oil Sept. 8. Jason and Sam drove 40 pounds of mostly green (instead of purple) small, round arbequina olives to a friend in Marianna, Fla., who owns an old private oil press and came back with 500 milliliters: about a pint.

Family members and friends gathered 'round a rustic table set up in the field. They dipped slices of baguette into the glass bowl.

The oil was a beautiful chartreuse-gold. It hit the palate as buttery and mild, a little thin, with a slight peppery finish. The Shaws were as giddy as Georgia men allow themselves to get in public.

"It's good, isn't it," Jason said, nodding. "We've just begun."

The Georgians continue to research; last week, they visited Texas Olive Ranch, a few hours south of San Antonio, where owner Jim Henry expects to harvest 500 tons from his five-year-old trees this season.

The Shaws figure they have spent about $250,000 thus far. Kevin estimates per-acre costs at $5,000 to $7,000. In four years, they expect to have 100 acres planted. Within six years, they hope to "knock a dent" in that big investment. Ten years down the road, they want to tend 25,000 acres of olives and clear $2,000 to $2,500 in profit per acre. Better than peanuts, for sure. The wholesale potential: $14 to $19 per gallon.

The Shaws had a booth at the Georgia Grown Food Show in Atlanta last year and presented their plans to an enthusiastic crowd.

"Chefs from Atlanta to Savannah to Valdosta were coming at us," Jason Shaw says. "They want Georgia oil. And we're going to give it to them."