In the Jockey Club's 30-plus years here, the more it has changed, the more it has stayed the same. The hunt-club knickknacks and horsy artwork are unwavering. The homey red-and-white tablecloths are still dressed with a single red rose. The yellow glass lanterns continue to throw a warm light against the cave-dark wood. This is the look of relaxed money, the restaurant version of silk cravats and tweed. Not that anyone would wear tweed at the Jockey Club. No, it's definitely dark suits. And handed-down pearls for the wives, gold lame blouses for the girlfriends. The waiters, too, are among the most formal in town.
Ritz Carlton Hotel
2100 Massachusetts Ave. NW
Hours of Operation and Prices
Breakfast: M-F 6:30-11, Sat-Sun 7-11:30; Entrees: $4.50-$14.50
Lunch: Daily noon-2:30; Entrees: $11.50-$23
Dinner: Daily 6-10:30; Entrees: $24.50-$30
All major credit cards
Dress: Jacket & tie
Complimentary valet parking
Nearest Metro: Dupont Circle
The management wouldn't dare do away with the Traditional Baked French Onion Soup, the Caesar salad or the crab cakes that became famous three decades ago. "Our traditional Pommes Souffles are available," boasts the menu, and it invites you "to order any of our Jockey Club tableside specialties."
The grand-hotel standby, Dover sole, is the real thing here. Another mainstay is rack of lamb. The list of entrees continues with gently updated luxuries: lobster with beurre blanc, beef with perigourdine sauce and foie gras; steak with roasted garlic puree. At lunch there are also a couple of pastas, plus several salads that are warm or cold edible still lifes. All this comes at a hefty price, just as you'd expect in a grand hotel dining room where you can order the finest pommes souffles - potato chips puffed into balloons - outside of New Orleans, and where there's an entire cart of dessert choices, plus endearing little petits fours, with your coffee. Year after year.
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company
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