Travel Index: Foreign Destinations Sunday, September 19, 1999

AFRICA

"Game Plan," by John Wood, 8/29/99. Animal encounters on a Tanzania safari.

"The Zambezi Way," by John Briley, 3/14/99. Following the Zambezi on a southern Africa safari.

SOUTH AFRICA

"Finding a Lost City," by Todd Pitock, 5/9/99. The Palace of the Lost City resort.

"Stepping Lightly," by Roger Piantadosi, 4/18/99. A visit to post-apartheid South Africa.

"Lost in the Translation," by Todd Pitock, 3/15/98. Johannesburg, the key to understanding South Africa.

"Who Goes There?," by Lynne Duke, 7/20/97. South Africa after apartheid.

ASIA and MIDDLE EAST

BALI

"The Men From Bubbling Magma," by Fred A. Bernstein, 6/14/98. Trekking up Mount Batur, an active volcano.

CAMBODIA

"Tyrants' Day Out," by John Auchard, 5/2/99. Impressions from a visit to a troubled land.

"Perfect Ruin," by John Buckley, 1/24/99. Touring Angkor Wat.

CHINA

"One Country, Two Stories," by Gary Lee, 1/11/98. Exploring Hong Kong and Shanghai.

"A Moon Dance," by Gary Lee, 8/2/98. The mountain city of Hangzhou.

EGYPT

"A Change of the Guard," by Karlyn Barker, 5/3/98. The state of tourism after the Luxor massacre.

INDIA

"The Crook's Tour," by Mark Jenkins, 11/2/97. Penetrating Bombay's intimidating facade with a guide/hustler.

IRAN

"Eight Days in Iran," by Bill Heavey, 7/19/98. Touring the once off-limits Islamic republic.

ISRAEL AND THE OCCUPIED TERRITORIES

"In Jericho, a Play for Holy Rollers," by Alison Buckholtz, 7/18/99. A casino in Palestinian territory.

"A Click and a Prayer," by Monica Neal Hertzman, 7/11/99. Publishing an Israel travel journal on the Web.

"Israel: A State of Change," by Alison Buckholtz, 4/5/98. The state of tourism during the country's 50th-anniversary celebrations.

"Parting the Waters," by John Lancaster, 2/22/98. Snorkeling in the Red Sea.

"Oh, Little Town," by Alison Buckholtz, 12/14/97. Visiting the ancient town of Bethlehem.

JORDAN

"A History in Sand," by Alison Buckholtz, 1/3/99. Touring the ancient city of Petra.

JAPAN

"Tokyo's Geek Streets," by Rob Pegoraro, 11/29/98. Shopping for electronics in the Akihabara neighborhood.

"Madeline Goes to Japan," by Cindy Loose, 5/31/98. Taking a 5-year-old halfway around the world.

"Japan Ease," by Sandra Sugawara, 1/18/98. Tips on getting around and what to see, from an experienced host of American visitors.

KOREA

"Borderline Absurdity," by Kevin Sullivan, 1/11/98. Touring the DMZ.

KYRGYZSTAN

"What Are You Looking For?," by Mike Tidwell, 9/14/97. A horseback journey in the newly opened ex-Soviet state.

MALAYSIA

"Malay Days," by Gary Lee, 8/23/98. The various cultures of Malaysia.

MOROCCO

"The Stork & the Rug," by Rich Thomas, 6/6/99. A run-in with carpet dealers.

NEPAL

"Everyman's Everest," by Mark Klesius, 6/27/99. Climbing Kala Pattar, Everest's accessible neighbor.

SAUDI ARABIA

"Hajj," by Reshma Memon Yaqub, 5/16/99. An account of the annual Muslim pilgrimage.

SINGAPORE

"In Singapore, Natural Relief," by L. Peat O'Neil, 8/8/99. Singapore's Botanic Gardens and other parks.

"Well Suited in Singapore," by Annabelle Kerins, 12/13/98. Buying a made-to-measure suit.

THAILAND

"Just the Right Touch," by Steven Van Yoder, 9/5/99. Experiencing the ancient art of Thai massage at the source.

"Seeking the Middle Way," by Tom McNichol, 7/5/98. Great deals in Thailand.

TURKEY

"Renaissance, Breaking Waves," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 9/12/99. An 11-day cruise from Athens to Istanbul.

"In Istanbul, Shopping as It Used to Be," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 7/25/99. The Covered Bazaar, and more.

"Geology Is Destiny," by Bill Heavey, 1/11/98. The extraordinary rock formations of Cappadocia.

"Here's the Rub," by David Streitfeld, 7/6/97. Indulging in Istanbul's famed baths--while they still last.

VIETNAM

"Prime Time for Vietnam?," by Steven Pearlstein, 1/10/99. Touring the reemergent Vietnam while it's still a bargain.

"It's a Wonderful Wife," by John Wood, 12/28/97. The fine art of lying when touring Vietnam.

AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND

AUSTRALIA

"Up High Down Under: A View From the Bridge," by John Shaw, 12/13/98. Climbing the Sydney Harbor Bridge.

"Far Be It," by Mike Tidwell, 3/8/98. Locating and visiting the most distant place on the globe from Washington, D.C.: Cumberland Rock, Australia.

NEW ZEALAND

"A Warrior Lives On," by Ryan J. Donmoyer and Robin N. Sylvester, 5/2/99. Diving the wreck of Greenpeace's Rainbow Warrior.

"Black Water Rafting," by Scott Carlson, 10/11/98. Riding an underground river.

"In New Zealand's Te Papa, a Virtual Reality," by Neal Becton, 9/27/98. Touring the unusual Museum of New Zealand, or Te Papa.

EUROPE

ANDORRA

"Angola? You Went to Angola?," by Nan Chase, 7/19/98. Touring the tiny nation between France and Spain.

AUSTRIA

"Something's Brewing in Vienna," by Peter Wortsman, 1/24/99. Appreciating Viennese cafes.

"A Bad Blumau Experience," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 11/16/97. A visit to Rogner-Bad Blumau, Austria's artfully eccentric spa.

BELGIUM

"The Brussels Puzzle," by Gary Lee, 3/22/98. Europe's emerging cosmopolitan center.

"Brussels Chocolate: Nobody Knows the Truffles I've Seen," by Gary Lee, 11/2/97. Top chocolatiers in the Belgian capital.

CROATIA

"In Tourist-Free Dubrovnik, More Collateral Damage," by Bill Whitman, 6/6/99. Visiting Dubrovnik with war nearby.

"Croatia: Resurfacing After a Long Dive," by Jo Rector and John Allen, 5/10/98. Diving the Adriatic.

CZECH REPUBLIC

"It's in the Bones," by Dave Sturm, 10/4/98. The Bone Church of Kutna Hora, east of Prague.

" 'Prague Is Over,' " by David Sturm, 11/9/97. The rising comfort level worries expatriates.

"In Prague, a Newly Opened Shrine to Art Nouveau," by David Sturm, 9/14/97. The dazzling Obecni Dum (Municipal House) museum.

FRANCE

"Savoring Cognac at the Source," by C.B. Heinemann, 3/14/99. Touring the Cognac region.

"Cruising at the Speed of Life," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 2/14/99. Report from a river cruise in southern France.

"M.F.K. Fisher's Feeding Ground," by Mary Lou Longworth, 12/13/98. Touring the late food writer's Marseille haunts.

"Van Gogh's Final Landscape," by Sarah Clayton, 9/27/98. Visiting Auvers-sur-Oise, the village where Van Gogh died.

"Mount Cezanne," by Mary Lou Longworth, 8/9/98. The artist's Aix-en-Provence stomping ground.

"When in France, Etc.," by Brett D. Fromson, 6/21/98. Ile d'Yeu, a tiny Atlantic island where the French vacation.

"In French Catalonia, the Power of Picasso," by Nan Chase, 5/24/98. The Museum of Modern Art in Ceret.

"In the Land of the Heretics," by Roxanne Roberts, 8/24/97. Tracing the path of the Cathars in southern France.

PARIS:

"The Biggest Park You've Never Heard Of," by Deborah Baldwin, 7/11/99. The Parc de la Villette on the city's north edge.

"Respect Is Burning," by Seth Hamblin, 6/27/99. Le Queen, a hot nightclub.

"Sacre Blur! Paris in a Moment," by Brett Lieberman, 5/9/99. A weekend in Paris.

"Cheap Sleeps in Paris," by Deborah Baldwin, 4/18/99. Thirteen hotels under $100.

"City of Nights," by Gerald W. Bracey, 4/11/99. Savoring Paris on a Seine dinner cruise.

"Advice for the Louvre Lorn," by Gerald W. Bracey, 2/7/99. Lesser-known Paris art museums.

"Take a Puppet Break," by Kira Marchenese, 12/27/98. Paris's marionette theaters.

"A 9th to Remember," by Deborah Baldwin, 11/1/98. Paris's appealing 9th arrondissement.

"Panning for a Great Sandwich," by Deborah Baldwin, 7/12/98. Places to buy takeout food.

"Changing the Chanel: Designer Discounts in Paris," by L. Peat O'Neil, 6/28/98. Cheap chic in the French capital.

"Cheap Eats in Paris," by Deborah Baldwin, 3/29/98. A new generation of budget gourmet restaurants.

"Paris for a Pittance," by Alan S. Kay, 3/15/98. A week in Paris on a budget, via the Internet.

"Seine Advice," by Jerry Haines, 2/1/98. Personal recommendations make a trip to Paris worthwhile.

"Along the Rue Tiquetonne, Gay Paree," by Gary Lee, 10/12/97. Gay-friendly restaurants and shops in the 2nd arrondissement.

"Nooks on Tape," by Gary Lee, 8/10/97. Walking tours of Paris via audiotape cassette.

"Oui Oui, Hon: Baltimore in Paris," by Deborah Baldwin, 7/13/97. The funky, little-known neighborhood of Butte aux Cailles.

"An African American in Paris," by Gary Lee, 1/19/97. Following in the footsteps of black expatriates, from James Baldwin to Richard Wright.

GERMANY

"In Berlin, the Art of Sex," by Marianna Beck and Jack Hafferkamp, 4/18/99. Berlin's Beate Uhse Erotik-Museum.

"Berlin's Middle Age," by Gary Lee, 3/28/99. Visiting the reunified and reemergent city.

"Berlin's Green Man, Running for Life," by David Sturm, 6/14/98. Contrasting attitudes in the east and west sections of the city.

GREAT BRITAIN

"Jane Austen's Bubbly Bath," by Jessica Portner, 9/12/99. A walking tour of the author's former haunts.

"Footloose & London-Free," by John Burgess, 8/22/99. A country walk through Kent's Darent River Valley.

"Thank You, Mr. Hughes, Wherever You Are," by Martha C. De Sipio, 7/18/99. Touring Hardwick Hall, a National Trust manor house in Derbyshire.

"In Liverpool, the Beatles Play On," by Bill O'Brian, 2/28/99. Touring the Beatles Story shrine.

"Lodging That's Wild and Wolsey," by Tara Mack, 1/17/99. The Wolsey Lodges, a private network of B&Bs.

"A Winter Refuge on the Edge," by Sarah Clayton, 12/20/98. Staying in a National Trust rental property in Cornwall.

"We Bought a Mountain," by Linton Weeks, 10/12/97. In Snowdonia, Wales, a chance encounter with a long-ago heroine.

LONDON:

"God Save the Teen," by Paula Span, 8/1/99. Attractions for parents and teens.

"Picking the Right River Cruise," by Carol Sottili, 6/20/99. Thames river cruises.

"Notting Hill Verite," by Tamsin Todd, 5/23/99. Exploring the Notting Hill neighborhood.

"Fresh Sheets," by Gary Lee, 5/16/99. Six new lodgings, from affordable to luxury.

"Raising the Bars," by Tamsin Todd, 3/21/99. London's dowdy pubs go upmarket.

"Absinthe Minded," by Tara Mack, 2/21/99. The return of the fabled green liqueur.

"The Bloomsbury Boom," by Tamsin Todd, 11/29/98. A new chapter for a dowdy neighborhood.

"The Skinny on Flats," by Wendy Law-Yone, 10/25/98. Renting short-term apartments in London neighborhoods.

"Just the Ticket," by Sharon Isch, 10/4/98. Staying abreast of the London theater scene via newsletters and the Internet.

"Remembering Wren," by John Burgess, 6/14/98. Touring the churches of royal architect Christopher Wren.

"Globe-Trotting in London," by John J. Ronan, 5/10/98. Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, restored.

"A New (Age) England," by Sherrie Nachman, 5/3/98. Discovering Neal's Yard, a mellow, little-known enclave.

"New England," by Gary Lee, 10/26/97. The hip, stylish London that you don't know.

GREECE

"Renaissance, Breaking Waves," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 9/12/99. An 11-day cruise from Athens to Istanbul.

"Ode on a Grecian Turn," by William Casey, 3/21/99. Driving tour of Crete.

"Apocalypse Now," by Mark Baechtel, 8/3/97. The tiny island of Patmos, where St. John the Apostle wrote the Book of Revelation.

HUNGARY

"Visiting Day at the Old Soviet Statues Home," by Jerry Haines, 6/27/99. Statue Park outside of Budapest.

ICELAND

"Fire and Nice," by Carol Vinzant, 8/8/99. Highlights of a whirlwind weekend trip on an Icelandair special.

IRELAND

"Rock Solid Ireland," by Ambrose Clancy, 6/20/99. The Burren, County Clare's small-town landscape.

"Dublin Your Fun," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 3/28/99. Touring the hip Temple Bar area.

"An Outbreak of Peace," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 11/15/98. Exploring Northern Ireland in the aftermath of the peace agreement.

"Exploring Ireland's Routes," by M.E. Hirsh, 8/2/98. Driving the less-traveled west coast.

"Easy Spirits," by Mary Jane Keller, 6/28/98. Eleven seniors tour Dun Aengus.

"Limerick, Rising From 'Ashes,'" by K.C. Summers, 11/30/97. Touring Limerick, the setting of Frank McCourt's memoir "Angela's Ashes."

ITALY

"Rome, Piece by Piece," by Edward Mark, 6/13/99. Rome's mosaics.

"Shell Game," by Katherine Kam, 9/20/98. A family visits Florence, using the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles as guides.

"In Rome, the Jews' Proud Legacy," by John McMurtrie, 8/16/98. Touring Rome's Jewish ghetto.

"Where the Venetians Dine," by Nancy Lewis, 8/9/98. Choice restaurants outside Venice.

"In Rome, What's Not to Lick?," by Elise Warner, 7/26/98. Guide to ice cream shops.

"Those Eyes!," by James T. Yenckel, 1/18/98. The famous masks of Venice.

"Pray As You Go," by Lois Brunner Bastian, 7/20/97. Bargains and serenity at religious guest houses.

"Venice by the Cook," by Nancy Lewis, 5/25/97. A culinary pilgrimage to Venice.

POLAND

"Krakow: Too Cool to be Hot," by David Streitfeld, 8/16/98. Exploring Poland's most popular tourist destination.

PORTUGAL

"An Explorer's Lisbon," by Gary Lee, 5/24/98. Discovering one of Europe's least-charted capitals.

SPAIN

"Surprise Conviction," by Elissa Leibowitz, 7/18/99. Learning to love bullfighting.

"Turista on Board," by Jerry Haines, 3/28/99. A driving vacation through Spain.

"Cheap Trek," by Michael H. Brown, 8/23/98. Hiking the Spanish Pyrenees on a budget.

"Madrid in 52 Hours: It Can Be Done," by Bill Frischling and Jennifer Canty, 6/21/98. A whirlwind tour of the capital.

"Paradors Found," by Julie Skurdenis, 1/25/98. Unique lodging in the country's government-run inns.

"Guggenheim's Spanish Port," by Deborah Baldwin, 12/21/97. Exploring Bilbao and its Guggenheim Museum.

"In 'Little Barcelona,' Seafood for Thought," by Deborah Baldwin, 8/24/97. Barcelona's low-key waterfront neighborhood and its seafood restaurants.

SWITZERLAND

"The Railroad Taken," by Susan Morse, 3/28/99. A funicular to a mountaintop above Montreux.

"Moving Mountains," by Lloyd Rose, 4/19/98. Touring the glaciers that inspired the Romantic poets.

NORTH AMERICA, CENTRAL AMERICA and CARIBBEAN

BAHAMAS

"Found at Sea," by Mike Tidwell, 2/28/99. A traveler gets marooned on obscure Ragged Island.

BERMUDA

"Bottlenose to Nose: Touched by a Dolphin," by C.J. Houtchens, 1/25/98. Swimming with the dolphins at the Southampton Princess.

CANADA

"Montreal, Expos'd," by Mike Tidwell, 7/11/99. Baseball Quebec-style.

"Toronto, Way Off-Off-Broadway," by Barry Webster, 10/11/98. A guide to small neighborhood theaters.

"Beyond the Paleo," by Howard Schneider and John Schwartz, 8/9/98. Digging for dinosaur bones in western Canada.

"Cool and Unusual," by Eric Hubler, 8/2/98. Hiking and biking in the Laurentian Mountains outside Montreal.

"Crossing Cultures," by Gary Lee, 4/26/98. Exploring Vancouver's and Montreal's international flavors.

"At Tremblant, Even Non-Skiers Get a Lift," by James T. Yenckel, 11/23/97. The off-slope charms of Quebec's Tremblant village.

"The Drifters," by Roger Piantadosi, 11/9/97. Rafting in northwest British Columbia.

"Toronto's Mountain Pique," by Barry Webster, 7/27/97. Fog machines and more at avant-garde Yorkville Park.

CARIBBEAN

"Small Town, Straight Up," by Jerry Haines, 2/28/99. Exploring the tiny island of Saba.

"Call of the Wild," by Douglas Wissing, 2/28/99. The pristine beauty of Dominica.

"Hot Deal," by Bill Heavey, 2/21/99. Sampling Cozumel, the cheapest deal in the Caribbean; with tips on finding budget getaways.

"Navigating Caribbean Ports," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 2/14/99. A guide to 10 of the busiest Caribbean ports of call.

"Underwater Fireworks," by Gary Lee, 1/10/99. A boat tour of the bioluminescent Mosquito Bay in Vieques.

"A Few Spirited Rounds," by Todd Pitock, 9/20/98. Surveying Jamaica's nine 18-hole courses.

"A Landlubber's Caribbean," by Jonathan Lerner, 3/8/98. Exploring the British Virgin Islands national parks on foot.

"Reality Island," by Craig Stoltz, 3/1/98. Jamaica's family-friendly Franklyn D. Resort.

"Near Grand Cayman, Catching Some Rays," by Mark Baechtel, 2/8/98. Visiting Stingray City.

"Going Deep in the Caymans," by Mark Baechtel, 12/28/97. Diving off Grand Cayman Island.

"Water Colors," by Gary Lee, 10/19/97. Ferrying among the islands in search of the Green Flash.

MEXICO and CENTRAL AMERICA

"Instant Baja: Just Add Water," by John Briley, 6/27/99. A sea-kayaking package tour in the Gulf of California.

"Riding the Web to Mexico," by Glenn Kessler, 4/11/99. Using the Web to plan a family trip in Guadelajara.

"At This Belize Lodge, Brain Required," by Andrea Sachs, 3/21/99. The Lamanai Outpost Lodge, an eco-research retreat.

"Hot Deal," by Bill Heavey, 2/21/99. Sampling Cozumel, the cheapest deal in the Caribbean; with tips on finding budget getaways.

"A Teen's-Eye View of Belize," by Emily K. Anthes, 11/29/98. A report on an education/service summer trip for teens.

"Acapulco Without . . . Acapulco," by Molly Moore and John Ward Anderson, 11/22/98. A report from Punta Diamante, an elegant resort town just south of Acapulco.

"It Was, Like, Real," by Kelly Wilkinson, 6/21/98. Taking a Green Tortoise bus tour from San Francisco to Baja, Mexico.

"Monarchs' Winter Digs," by Laura Dine, 2/22/98. Visiting wintering monarch butterflies at El Rosario sanctuary.

"In Mexico City, Spicy, Not Dicey," by Gary Lee, 2/1/98. Three hot restaurants.

"Acapulco Is HOT," by Bill Heavey, 8/31/97. The Mexican resort meets the '90s.

SOUTH AMERICA

"South America Lite," by Carolyn Spencer Brown, 10/4/98. Visiting the Amazon on a cruise ship.

ARGENTINA

"The Other Wine Country," by Anthony Faiola, 1/31/99. Touring the Mendoza wine region.

BOLIVIA

"Lost and Found," by Steve Hendrix, 9/6/98. In Bolivia, following in the footsteps of Yossi Ghinsberg, an Israeli adventurer.

COLOMBIA

"Miracle on the Mountain," by Mike Tidwell, 12/21/97. Spending Christmas alone in the Andes.

ECUADOR

"It's Not the Heat," by John Briley, 7/25/99. Exploring equatorial heat.

PERU

"Indelible Inca," by Roger Piantadosi, 1/25/98. Mystical experiences in Cuzco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

"Lima, Peru: Renewed and Improved," by Roger Piantadosi, 12/21/97. Exploring parks, plazas and museums in the revitalized capital.