The evolution of beer in Stafford County, Va.
By WP BrandStudio
Stafford County, Va., just 35 miles south of Washington, D.C., offers an intriguing window into the mid-Atlantic’s long history of beer.
On Route 1 in Stafford County, a simple highway marker offers some context: It designates Marlborough, an 18th-century port town, and details Irish settler John Mercer’s failed attempt to revive it with beer. Mercer built Virginia’s first commercial brewery in Marlborough, according to Lee Graves, author of “Virginia Beer: A Guide from Colonial Days to Craft’s Golden Age.” The business ultimately failed, but the brewery’s ales and porters gained a following. George Washington purchased a cask there in April 1768 and ordered gallons of strong beer and ale the following January; Thomas Jefferson was also a fan.
“All these Founding Fathers were beer geeks,” said Graves.
Throughout the rest of the county, similar spots offer visitors a taste of Colonial times and the early days of Virginia brewing, along with thoroughly modern upstart breweries that welcome visitors. Historic sights, such as George Washington’s childhood home, are perfect palate cleansers in between tasting-room stops. And there are enough varieties on tap around the county, from crisp lagers to fruity gose-style beers, to entice aficionados and casual drinkers alike.
How beer came to Virginia
Settlers brought beer with them when they landed at Jamestown in the 17th century, according to Graves, and it was a daily staple — even among children. Back then, most of the beer was low-alcohol ale made with barley, hops, water and yeast. But when settlers couldn’t get the supplies they needed from England, they improvised with ingredients like molasses, persimmon and pea pod shells.
“There’s quite a bit of innovation and creativity there,” said Graves.
As breweries spread across the state, plantation by plantation, ale and porter dominated. It wasn’t until the 1840s, when thousands of German immigrants began arriving in Virginia, that brewing began to shift course. Instead of ales, the Germans brewed lagers that were crisper, clearer and generally lighter because they were stored in such a way that gave the yeast time to settle. Stafford County locals and passersby sipped beers at the redbrick Cambridge Inn, now Amy’s Cafe, a family-style restaurant and bar, in the Falmouth Historic District. The Inn attracted sailors and teamsters staying at Temperance Tavern, a hotel down the street that did not serve alcohol, and that still stands today.
After the Civil War, Germans started to dominate commercial brewing, producing both ales and lagers that wouldn’t look so out of place now. “The craft beer drinkers of today, if we transported ourselves back to 1873 or so, we would recognize those beers,” Graves said.
A direct link to early Stafford brewing
Upstart Stafford County breweries are also looking to the past for inspiration. Adventure Brewing, established by three avid homebrewers in 2014, has experimented with historical formulas, including a Mary Washington-inspired gingerbread ale, and a dark brew based on a 200-year-old farmers’ recipe. Some locals balked at the unusual flavors when Adventure first opened, but now, “we’re able to bring out some very weird stuff. And it goes well,” said Tim Bornholz, a co-founder of Adventure Brewing.
Approachable beers, like IPAs and Irish red ale (the brewery’s top seller), are the focus. But Adventure has also found success with quirkier styles, like raspberry gose and Go East, Young Man, an Elvis-inspired peanut butter wheat with marshmallow fluff beer. Adventure’s family- and dog-friendly tasting rooms also feature live music, ranging from funk to metal, and the food-truck rotation includes barbecue and Cuban cuisine. Another popular touch: The bar at Adventure’s North tasting room is made from a 30-foot slab of sycamore recovered from a felled tree in Marlborough.
And every fall, Adventure spearheads an Oktoberfest that, in addition to serving Stafford beer and wine, showcases work by local artisans and serves German-inspired dishes prepared by local food trucks. “Just like with everything we do, our goal for this event is for people to come as they are and have a fun time with their friends and family,” said Bornholz.
Blending tradition with artistry
Highmark Brewery opened in early 2017 in an industrial-style space. The tasting room, decorated with co-owner Brandon Newton’s original paintings of Stafford County scenery, serves an eclectic lineup of beers that includes an easy-drinking American pale ale and a habanero-mango IPA. That wide range of styles is indicative of the rapidly growing local beer scene, which has “exploded over the past five years” and is attracting craft beer devotees who “are constantly looking for something new,” said Newton.
So far, bourbon barrel-aged stout and a white peach-flavored pale ale called Deja Vu, crafted by Newton’s uncle and head brewer Mark Thorsted, have been hits. Weekend live music and outdoor movie screenings, and the Juan More Taco food truck, liven up the brewery as well. Newton, a native Patawomeck Indian, is also looking at more ways to incorporate the Stafford County tribe into brewery events; Highmark’s annual Harvest and Flower Moon Festivals, held in fall and spring, are inspired by nature and Native American farming practices and feature local food and live music.
Back to basics
“They put all kinds of strange things in beer these days,” said Mark Faller, CEO of 6 Bears & a Goat Brewing Company. “A lot of people like that; I’m not knocking it.” But his brewery, which opened in January 2017, takes a simpler yet no less sophisticated approach. “We are traditionalists for the most part, but do play around with fresh fruit grown at a local berry farm,” he said.
Head brewer Chuck Arnold, a retired marine corps master gunnery sergeant, brews to Beer Judge Certification Program guidelines, said Faller: “So, if we tell you it’s a Vienna lager, by golly, it’s a Vienna lager.” Along with the flagship IPA, pale ale, blonde ale and Irish stout, there are usually eight to 12 rotational and seasonal beers on tap. Fruit-infused options are especially popular, and Faller says he’s converted endless wine and cider drinkers to blonde ale. “I think that’s a testament to the fact that people are willing to try craft beer,” Faller said. “They’re learning that there are so many styles that there’s one they will enjoy.”
6 Bears & a Goat also has a full restaurant serving pub-centric fare, like the brisket burger. Faller plans to add beer gardens and a music pavilion to the grassy 2-acre property.
The Perfect Location
One reason why Faller is feeling confident enough to expand is the pro-business philosophy in Stafford, and the fact that Economic Development Director John Holden “recognizes how breweries bring communities together,” he said. Stafford’s community of craft beer drinkers is growing, and in some ways, diversifying; 6 Bears & a Goat draws college students and young families as well as middle-aged folks and a 96-year-old World War II vet. Those demographics, and the planned retail uptick near his brewery, make the future of beer in Stafford look bright. The county’s flexible zoning laws also create an environment in which new breweries can thrive.
“We really wanted to make sure that Stafford could be a hub for brewing,” said Bornholz, who, along with his Adventure Brewing Co. partners, worked closely with the county board of supervisors to limit restrictions on where breweries can open.
On top of that, Stafford’s focus on preserving history makes it uniquely positioned to support a brewery culture. A recreation of George Washington’s childhood home at Ferry Farm, for example, is now open to visitors. Built upon the home’s archaeological footprint, the house features Colonial reproduction furnishings and objects, while the grassy property has views of the Rappahannock River, just like the Washington family would have enjoyed.
With its strategic location, broad spectrum of beers, and committed local brewers, the area has earned its place on the impressive Virginia craft beer map. And it’s only the beginning.
“Stafford County is halfway between Richmond and D.C.,” said Bornholz. “As we continue to get more and more breweries, all of a sudden it’s becoming a destination.”
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