D.C. chefs put fresh spins on global cuisine at MGM National Harbor
By WP BrandStudio
With the scheduled addition this fall of Italian restaurant Osteria Costa, which has already become the go-to place for Amalfi Coast cuisine in Las Vegas, MGM National Harbor is fast becoming a destination for diners from D.C. and around the world. The vast array of international cuisines available makes dining at the resort feel like traveling the globe under one roof.
Throughout the 18 dining options at MGM National Harbor, ambitious chefs are constantly creating new dishes using a variety of traditional and innovative techniques. From the vodka-infused tempura batter at Fry Bar to hand-stretched New York-style pies at ZiZi’s Pizza, one of nine venues inside the upscale-casual food hall, National Market, authenticity and creativity characterize each venue.
Spanish cider and the bounty of the Chesapeake
At the Maryland Fry Bar, an eight-seat counter inside the seafood restaurant Fish by José Andrés, the tasting menu applies Japanese tempura techniques in unexpected ways. Tempura California avocado with smoked trout roe and seaweed seasoning is one of Head Chef Marissa Scarna’s favorite dishes.
“The saltiness of the trout roe goes perfectly with the creaminess of the avocado, and seaweed seasoning with sesame gives a little bit of crunch,” she said.
The global perspective is part of what drew Scarna to her role at Fish. José Andrés incorporates flavors from his home country of Spain and his world travels. Guests can drink the Spanish natural cider Trabanco from the spigot of a barrel, while the seasonal crab shack on the patio nods to Chesapeake Bay culture. Scarna has worked with Andrés for the past nine years, including at Oyamel Cocina Mexicana in D.C. and China Poblano in Las Vegas.
With Andrés, “There’s always a story behind the food. It’s not just about putting ingredients together that taste good,” she said.
The tempura avocado dish at the Fry Bar, for example, tells the story of Andrés’ travels in Japan. After much testing, the research and development team at ThinkFoodGroup landed on a winning tempura batter made with vodka. Because alcohol evaporates faster than water, the batter dries out more quickly in the frying liquid, resulting in larger bubbles with more surface area—and more crispiness. “It’s super crunchy and at the same time it’s thin, so that every ingredient we use stands out,” said Scarna.
She also loves the purist style of the crab cakes at Fish, to which little is added beyond lots of crab meat. The flat-top preparation creates “a really nice crust on both sides,” while keeping the crabmeat in the middle “super moist and delicious,” said Scarna. They’re served with a simple mayonnaise-based dressing made with buttermilk and Cajun spices.
Pizza with a pedigree
One of the resort’s most enticing places to explore is National Market. The upscale-casual venue is “our take on a food hall,” said Jason Johnston, executive chef at MGM National Harbor. It houses nine individual eateries that range from Honey’s Southern-style chicken and donuts to modern Mexican fare at Amo Los Tacos. Johnston recommends arriving early at Bento, where weekend crowds line up for fresh sashimi, nigiri and hand rolls prepared by expert sushi chefs.
But Johnston’s favorite option is ZiZi’s Pizza, where the pizza, calzones and stromboli are inspired by his grandmother’s recipes. A specialist from Naples trained staff on the “many little details that go into making the pizza dough properly,” including stretching the dough and cooking it at the proper temperature, said Johnston. A three-day cold fermentation process give the yeast and starter time to digest sugars, helping the dough achieve “that bubble and blister on the pizza crust,” he said.
Coastal Italy meets the Chesapeake Bay
Italian cuisine, specifically from the Amalfi Coast region, will be the focus at Osteria Costa when it opens this fall. Expect “super fresh ingredients, light fare and pasta” and a relaxing and unpretentious atmosphere, according to executive chef Beau Williams. He’s begun sourcing olive oils, tomatoes and cheese from Italian producers, as well as prosciutto Americano, which is produced domestically. Fresh fish from the Chesapeake Bay is an important part of the menu. And the dining experience will end with fresh limoncello, made daily in-house and presented to each table.
“The seafood scene here is super strong and we want to honor that. Especially because our menu is driven by the Amalfi Coast,” said Williams.
For an entrée, seasonal fish that is grilled, then served with lightly sautéed zucchini, basil and puttanesca sauce. Williams, an alumnus of Michael Mina and Todd English; both from the Bellagio in Las Vegas and Rustic Canyon restaurants in Santa Monica, CA respectively, is also looking forward to introducing more fresh pastas to resort guests. The recipe of semolina flour and water are put through an pasta extruder machine for consistent shape and texture. Williams is partial to Amalfi-style linguine and clams, a light dish with house-made linguine, littleneck and Manila clams, fresh lemon, parsley, garlic and olive oil.
The arrival of Osteria Costa signals the steady progression of the MGM National Harbor dining scene. Given the broad spectrum of flavors and inspirations, and the focus on authenticity in restaurants throughout the resort, guests can expect a memorable experience each time they sit down to a meal. “We look to be a food and beverage destination, the culinary capital of the capitol,” said Johnston.
