Crisp ales, long trails and an apple butter festival: What to do in Berkeley Springs, WV in the fall
By WP BrandStudio
Photo courtesy of Travel Berkeley Springs
Berkeley Springs, WV, has been attracting vacationers for centuries; in the 1700s, out-of-towners flocked to the area to enjoy the warm mineral springs that give the town its name, as well as its famed quarter-horse street racing and gambling halls.
And while the wilder pleasures of its storied past have subsided, Berkeley Springs remains a place where people come to relax and feel alive, as local Laura Smith will attest. “This is where you go to get your senses heightened,” she said.
Between the dynamic arts and fall festival scene, a largely undiscovered state park and a slew of recently opened attractions with prime leaf-peeping views, this mountainside hideaway has plenty to offer weekend travelers—particularly in the fall. Here’s how to explore this jewel of West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle.
A history of wellness
One of the earliest fans of the region’s waters was George Washington, who took the first of many outdoor soaks in a now landmarked tub in Berkeley Springs State Park in 1748.
To follow in the first president’s footsteps, visitors can dabble their toes in the shallow pools at Berkeley Springs State Park, then head over to the park’s recently renovated Historic Roman bathhouse, which features nine individual baths in private rooms. At the main bathhouse, one can opt for an underwater “watsu” (“water” + “shiatsu”) massage, or a calming 20-minute soak in a private room or family-style tub.
For more chances to get rest and relaxation, tourists can pay a visit to the Ice House, a 40,000-square-foot art center and community hub. There, expect to find multiple galleries with special exhibits and a local arts co-op, as well as weekly belly dancing and yoga classes.
In October, bookworms can look forward to Berkeley Springs’s Book Festival, which will feature works from regional authors. And for those seeking out something more mystical, the Festival of Light—the region’s largest psychic fair—is a top option; it will be held on Veterans Day weekend in November and a $5 admission gives access to more than 80 readers, healers and a dozen workshops.
The Country Inn; Photo courtesy of Travel Berkeley Springs
You can also unwind outside on the self-guided historic walking tour that begins at the Dutch Cemetery, which dates back to 1777, and passes the Wisteria Cottage, Berkeley Castle and The Country Inn (where it’s worth lingering for a detoxifying Thai body wrap at the Renaissance Spa).
Fall colors
There’s something extra magical about Berkeley Springs in autumn, a time when locals come together to celebrate seasonal attractions and activities—such as the Apple Butter Festival, which is celebrating its 46th anniversary this year on October 12 and 13.
“It’s part of the town’s heritage,” said local Lori Hansroth of the festival. She recounted how the whole community gets involved in the event, peeling, stirring and congregating around copper kettles full of apple butter, all while enjoying festival food, games, music and the popular Craft Beer Garden.
For fans of a good old autumn Bavarian bonanza, The Country Inn is hosting its annual Oktoberfest on October 5, complete with Spaten beer, games, a polka band and lots of lederhosen. And art lovers should plan a visit with the Berkeley Springs Studio Tour, held throughout Morgan County on October 19 and 20. There, guests are welcomed into the private studios of nationally and regionally known artists; Laura Smith said not to miss Frog Valley Artisans and Hsu Studios. The latter is known for its jewelry and aluminum mobiles, she said.
Apple Butter Festival; Photo courtesy of Travel Berkeley Springs
“You can scarcely go out in public in town without someone here wearing colorful Hsu jewelry,” said Jeanne Mozier, founding president of Travel Berkeley Springs.
At Cacapon Resort State Park, a 6000-acre greenspace in Berkeley Springs, there are guided tours of a blooming eight-acre wildflower meadow, weekend campfires near the nature center and Haunted Trail Days on October 19 and 26. Expect tractor rides, pumpkin carving contests, hot dogs and hot apple cider to be on the itinerary this year.
Rebirth of Cool
The mineral springs may be the area’s dominant feature, but the 1960s-era Coolfont Resort has long been regarded as the town’s other pride and joy. Proprietor Larry Omps knows people who have been going there for generations.
“The idea is that this is their second home, and that’s what we want,” he said.
After extensive renovations over the last year, Coolfont reopened in September, making it the perfect place to stay during an autumnal visit. Perched on 250 woodsy acres just 10 minutes from the downtown area, the updated Coolfont features an indoor heated saltwater pool and a 150-seat restaurant specializing in smoked-in-house BBQ.
The resort also opened its Treetop Lodge, which offers eight suites with balcony views of the 12-acre manmade lake located on its grounds. Across the road, the Berkeley Springs Brewery serves beers that encapsulate the best of fall flavors with the CaCapon Kölsch, Lover’s Leap IPA or the Coolfont Brew amber ale.
Those who come for a weekend visit at Coolfont—or any of Berkeley Springs’s other hotels, inns and resorts—can make the most of their trip by enjoying the area’s bustling food scene. In the morning, swing by the Southern Belle Truck Stop, a mainstay since 1971 known for its iconically fluffy pancakes. That’s where Jenna Hansroth, owner of the Inspired Chaos gift shop (and daughter of Lori Hansroth), likes to tuck into breakfast with her D.C. friends, who come to Berkeley Springs as a respite from city life.
Tari’s Cafe; Photo courtesy of Travel Berkeley Springs
For lunch, head to local favorite Tari’s for the creamy, flavor-packed fried green tomatoes mac and cheese, or sample some of the 60 olive oils and small plates at the new tasting gallery The Naked Olive Lounge. And if you’re still hungry for more, end the day at Ravenwood Pub, another new eatery. Their star dish, the Brewers Bowl—a hearty mix of mashed potatoes, ribeye steak, peppers, onions and oatmeal stout gravy—is best enjoyed with a side of live rock and folk music performed by owner Regina Aamacha most days of the week.
Into the woods
Cacapon Resort State Park—pronounced Cuh-cay-pun, a Shawnee Indian name meaning “medicine waters”—is “a little hidden gem of the Eastern Panhandle,” said park superintendent Scott Fortney. “It’s got something for everybody.”
Newly renovated vacation cabins, a golf course, horseback riding and moss-covered trails offer ample opportunity for autumnal exploring, on top of the guided tours that will be held in October. Fortney points beginner hikers to the gradual two-mile Start Me Up path that starts near the nature center and ends at Batt Shelter, while more advanced hikers will enjoy trekking the hillier five-mile Central Trail loop.
Hiking along Meadow Branch; Photo courtesy of Travel Berkeley Springs
And cyclists revel in the park’s recently developed 10 miles of mountain bike trails, with another 15 miles opening within the next two years. Drive to the Cacapon Mountain Overlook for sweeping views across West Virginia and Virginia.
But no matter how you explore Cacapon and Berkeley Springs’s many other back roads, make sure to be ready to snap photos—the foliage in Berkeley Springs’s wilderness is a sight to be seen in the autumn.
“Fall is my favorite season in West Virginia,” said Jenna Hansroth. “When the leaves start to change color on the surrounding mountains, they cast a warm amber glow over the whole town.”
