Going wild in Western Canada

From wellness retreats in ‘the Amazon of the North,’ to ‘heli-kayaking’ trips to glacial lakes, the Canadian wilderness is another world

By Chloe Berge

Note: Portions of this article originally appeared in Boundless

Mist from a nearby waterfall prickles my cheeks. Dewy, spongy moss cushions my bare feet. But this is no ordinary woodland walk. I’m “forest bathing” in the heart of the Great Bear rainforest, a 15.8-million-acre sweep of wilderness that stretches 250 miles along British Columbia’s coast — and is often referred to as “the Amazon of the North.”

Forest bathing — or shinrin-yoku, to give the Japanese practice its proper name — is a sort of “ecotherapy”: essentially a mindfulness activity, requiring the “bather” absorb themselves in nature to reconnect with the world around them. (Though it might not entail an actual “bath,” per se, the idea is that you’re “bathing” in the sights and sounds of the forest.) Since its inception in Japan in the 1980s, the art has risen in popularity in tandem with wellness trends. Which is how I come to be trying it out at Nimmo Bay Resort, one of Canada’s finest luxury wilderness retreats, and among the most isolated: it’s only accessible by plane or boat.

“Forest bathing allows you to tune into and fully experience your surroundings: the colors, sounds, textures and smells of the forest are healing for the body, mind and spirit,” explains Becky Murray, Nimmo Bay’s director of operations. Sure enough, the experience ushers me into a state of complete calm: an extension of the total immersion in nature that began the moment I disembarked onto Nimmo Bay’s dock. Briny ocean air moves through towering Douglas fir, spruce and cedar, carrying their fresh, herbaceous scent. There’s something undeniably primal about the landscape: the 1,000-year-old trees, the dramatic fjords, and an abundance of wildlife, from grizzly bears to cougars.

After a short rest in our cabin, my partner and I are outfitted with kayaks. (Tucked among trees or facing the ocean’s moody swells, each of the resort’s private cabins are decorated with antique carpets and furnishings handpicked by the owners. Mine is adjacent to a cascading waterfall and cedar hot tub.)

We glide over the calm bay in total silence, except for the sound of paddles knifing through the inky-blue water. Overhead, an eagle sails across wisps of cloud, guiding us to the resort’s floating sauna, tucked away in Little Nimmo Bay, a private anchorage. Leaving our kayaks at the dock’s edge, hours slip away as I alternate between cold, invigorating ocean plunges and steamy, detoxifying stretches in the cedar sauna. Inside, an oversized window frames a view of emerald-green Mount Stephens. Between hydrotherapy circuits, I sip sparkling water and wine on a lounger below the gray sky.

That evening at Nimmo Bay’s floating restaurant, Little River, I’m served a tasting menu of wild ingredients foraged from the surrounding land and sea. Under cathedral ceilings in a minimalist cedar lodge, Balsam fir tea arrives first, drawing on a Gwawaenuk (pronounced “gwah-way-ee-nook”) First Nation tradition that touts its digestive and medicinal qualities. The aromatic tonic tastes like the forest. Later, I devour wild mushrooms and buttered leeks showered in truffle shavings, followed by seared local sablefish and spot prawns simmered in kelp dashi.

The following morning begins with a restorative yoga class. The gentle ocean waves and murmur of the waterfall outside the studio seem to match the rhythm of my deep breathing. A sense of wellbeing is at the core of many Nimmo Bay activities, including yoga, guided hikes, or massage treatments within the forest. But perhaps the real magic comes from simply being here. Time slows as I enjoy a private picnic at the water’s edge and sit by a fireside on the floating dock, watching the setting sun turn the bay pink.

These quiet moments feel like an invitation to witness a beauty and peace far from everyday life.

More wild West Coast lodges

Craving more heart-thumping excursions than pulse-slowing wellness exercises? Choose your own adventure at one of these far-flung B.C. retreats.

Sonora Resort, Sonora Island

From Sonora Resort’s secluded location off the west coast of British Columbia, a helicopter transports adventurous travelers over the Coast Mountains. Zigzagging around jagged peaks and soaring over ancient glaciers, the tour ends at a remote glacial lake in the clouds. Only accessible during the summer months, guests can take out kayaks or stand-up paddleboards, weaving around icebergs in the aquamarine water.

Spirit Bear Lodge, Great Bear Rainforest

In the northern reaches of the Great Bear rainforest, guests of Spirit Bear Lodge have the rare opportunity to spot a spirit bear, also known as a Kermode bear. From the lodge, boats take small groups through steel-colored waterways hugged by rainforest, eventually arriving at smaller estuaries. Here, the safari continues on foot with a guide from the Kitasoo/Xai’xais (pronounced “ki-ta-soo/hai-hais”) First Nation. A cultural tour is often incorporated into the excursion, where guests visit a historic Klemtu big house and see other significant sites, such as petroglyphs.

Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, Vancouver Island

While Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge offers heli-adventures and wildlife safaris to rival other resorts, its pioneer spirit sets it apart. Luxurious tented accommodations create the ultimate glamping experience. Horseback riding excursions take guests across glacial rivers and through wildflower meadows, amplifying the feeling of old-world adventure travel.

Canada is calling. We can’t wait to welcome you, with glowing hearts. Visit ForGlowingHearts.com to learn more.